We found the guidebook description for the approach a little confusing but if you take the left hand fork at the head of the valley and then trend up right on goat trails between the two cliff bands it works fine.
No freeze and soft snow conditions today as reported elsewhere in the range.
It's a good time to do this peak as the scree/talus on the upper part of the approach is soft and easy walking due to the recent rains and the scree slopes on the peak itself are covered in 10-20 cm of good kick-stepping snow (that snow won't last long).
Loose snow avalanches up to small size 2 and a thin slab on a steep east aspect size 1.5, all in the recent storm snow.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com