Two parties climbed the normal (north glacier) route on Mt. Aberdeen and Haddo today. Overall conditions are excellent.
Despite a relatively balmy morning temperature of 7 degrees at Lake Louise, the snowpack had frozen well at higher elevations. Some rockfall and icefall were noted, beginning around 6:30am near the toe of the glacier. Travel conditions were excellent with well frozen snow on the approach and mid-glacier and nice soft ice on the pitchs at the glacier tongue. Things were warming up during the morning and we experienced up to ankle deep boot penetrations on the upper glacier which provided for excellent step-kicking conditions. Crevasses seemed well bridged (for now) and the bergschrund is easily passable. We were happy to have started early.
We descended SW from the summitt of Aberdeen to the south face which is also in good condition. There is a significant amount of snow in the normal gully, making for relatively easy travel and helps to save the knees. We stayed on the Aberdeen side of the tributary stream and the main drainage where there is now a faint trail developing that leads through some minor bushwacking for about 1 km before regaining the old trail down Paradise Valley. This option avoids two (or three) river crossings where the old bridges have been removed.
Play safe!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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