We left the parking lot at 0430 and found the snow to be softening
fast enough on the steeper S facing terrain that we probably should
have left 1 hr earlier.
Lower angle parts of the glacier remained supportive until ~1330,
while the steeper terrain leading up the the Victoria-Collier Col was
softening by ~0930.
Although it is possible to climb to the V-C col entirely on snow at
the moment, we climbed up one of the rock steps just to the left as
the line of continuous snow has some loose scree melting at the top of
it, which produced one rockfall. A few pieces of rock gear may be
useful if you choose this option. Snow remained dry on the N facing
aspects above the col. Near the rock step on the upper ridge, there
is only 5 - 10cm of snow overlying ice.
Josh Briggs
ARG ASG
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.