Went up to Abbott Pass monday night and climbed Victoria S ridge today. Good conditions all around.
Abbott Pass trail much improved by recent traffic. Kudos to everyone who was pushing rocks off the trail.
Victoria S ridge in good shape. Dry rock climbing (very little verglas) to top of 1st step. Crampons on from there all the way to the summit and down to Huber glacier toe. Summit ridge has some sporty snow climbing but very few cornices. Travel was excellent on the ridge but the east face got soft in a hurry.
Huber descent is good but there is already about 40m of 45 degree bare ice in the lower descent gully. No fun in soft boots.
Still snow patches spitting rocks above the Huber Ledges.
Victoria traverse probably needs more radiation as the east face would be a scary place to be after 9am I am guessing.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide