clients to Pigeon Spire on Saturday. Overnight refreeze on Saturday was
marginal and consequently the climb to the Bugaboo -Snowpatch Col was pretty
soggy but still easy to travel with ice and rocks well covered by snow.
We went to the first summit on the West Ridge without encountering any snow
en route. A guided party did (probably) this season's first ascent of the
true summit the day before and reported that crampons and ice axe were
essential with the strong overnight refreeze that they had at the time.
We descended via the Bugaboo Glacier, which required crossing two crevasse
bridges high up on the descent. Those bridges will likely not last over the
summer and a good overnight refreeze is recommended when choosing this
route. The glacier is snow covered all the way to the level where the route
traverse to the left to gain the moraine and traveled well in spite of the
soft snow.
Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.