Climbed the Northwest Ridge of Mount Sir Donald Sunday 5 July, 2009.
The route is snow free from the col to the summit if you stay on the ridge proper. The West Face bypass still has a fair bit of snow, we choose to descent the upper NW Ridge (7-8 single rope raps plus downclimbing) to the bolted raps (8-10 25m raps plus scambling). The last bolted raps are free of the snow.
The col bivi is free of snow but the lower bivi is still fairly snow bound although there are bivi spots to be found and the toilet is usable.
We climbed in Trango like boots which were very nice on the snow covered approach to the col and the moist snow after the raps. No crampons or ice axes were used but an ice axe would probably be appreciated if it was a colder evening or we had an earlier approach.
There is great information about the rap route at the Visitor Centre at the pass. Remeber a backcountry pass is required to bivi, availible at the Visitor Centre.
Chris Atkinson, Mountain Guide