Guided two guests up Mt. Begbie's N Ridge (Normal Route) on Sunday.
Due to exposed ice, crampons are necessary at this point to ascend the glacier's toe. The snow covering the lower glacier is also rapidly diminishing exposing ice above the glaciers toe and making for weak snow bridges where there was less than 40cm of snow. Careful probing as well as keeping the rope tight were two techniques used to keep from immersing oneself in many of the water filled crevasses.
Ascending from the glacier to the rock ledge currently presents little difficulty with the moat still full of snow, however this is changing rapidly and caution is needed to execute this maneuver safely. A couple of .25" to 1" cams will allow You to build an anchor above the moat.
Contrary to local rumor the bolts on the traverse ledge are IN place and in good shape.
Of note were the millions of biting insects at all times of the day and night at the campground and some distance into the alpine.
Darek Glowacki
ACMG Ski Guide/Assistant Alpine Guide
Revelstoke Alpine Adventures
Darek Glowacki
ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide
P.O. Box 699
REVELSTOKE BC
CANADA
CANADA
V0E 2S0
ph# 250 837 5140(home)
email Darek@mail2skier.com