[MCR] Mt. Fay

Was up at the Neil Colgan hut over the weekend via the Perren route, and climbed the Center Ice Bulge on Fay and the NW ridge on Little.

 

The bergschrunds are starting to becoming problematic for both the Ice Bulge, the Roth/Kallen (which was very dirty with rockfall) and the descent off of the West ridge.  Make sure you study the places to cross while you are hiking to the base of the face.  The route itself was 90% ice with good gear and anchors all of the way up.  Both Mt. Little and the Perren approach were bone dry.

 

Glacier travel was slow and becoming a bit sporty with no overnight recovery in the snowpack.  Foot penetration was between boot top and waist in a few spots on the Fay glacier.  Careful probing and keeping the rope tight were critical for safe travel.

 

We had very unsettled weather with numerous squalls roll through and some mid morning and afternoon electrical activity.  We needed to constantly look over our shoulder to keep an eye on what was coming our way..

 

Hafe fun!

 

                        

Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide