Climbed Victoria S ridge today and descended Huber Glacier and Ledges. Victoria Ridge is in great shape. Huber glacier is getting tricky as crevasse bridges melt away. Abbott trail is in good shape.
The classic snow routes, like Lefroy and Glacier are looking nasty-lots of rockfall and bare ice. Bound to get much worse before they get better. Cathedral is icy but fine. Hungabee still needs a few more days to melt the ice off the west face and upper gullies. Tarrant Buttress is dry and Victoria south-north traverse is probably as good as it can get. Huber east face is icy.
Tokkum and Opabin glaciers are getting icy.
Good luck.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net