Climbed Mt. Athabasca today via the AA Col with a group from the ACC Calgary Section.
At 3:30am this morning it was +10 degrees, which was a little concerning, but thankfully the temperature steadily dropped as we gained altitude. There was not a good freeze overnight, but the snow was reasonably supportive in most areas. Above the bergschrund we experienced ankle to mid-shin boot penetrations with a 2 to 3cm thick crust on the surface of the snow. This made for good steps on ascent, but was a little tricky and annoying on the descent. The bergschrund is still easily passable. The upper mountain is in excellent condition with easy travel conditions.
We were glad for an early start given such a warm day. There were several loose snow avalanches and rock fall triggered on the big walls of Mt. Andromeda as we descended. The snow on the glacier was very weak by 11:00am. We talked with a party who climbed the north glacier ramp route and they reported soft snow conditions as well.
Have fun!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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