Just finished a few spectacular days of climbing in the Hermit Meadows, at Rogers Pass. We climbed the Hermit Traverse, Swiss Peaks Traverse via the south ridge of Swiss Peak, and the Hermit Traverse via the SW/ SE Ridges. Conditions were nearly perfect with good overnight recoveries in the snow gullies with softening during the day, good snow coverage on the glaciers, and dry rock on the ridges. Made for fast and enjoyable travel! Crampons were necessary on two of the mornings.
The 10-15cm of high elevation snow from a couple of weeks ago has essentially all sloughed off and the snowpack is beginning to feel quite a bit more settled on the solar aspects. Lower down the snow is melting quickly and coverage is changing rapidly. Several of the main snow gullies are beginning to melt out and will soon no longer connect with snow. Cornices and point release avalanches are still a concern during the heat of the day. We witnessed a significant chunk of cornice release from above the standard south gully decent on Mnt. Sifton. The cornice chunks and rocks traveled all the way to the glacier below, wiping out the footprints from a party that had descended the gully the day before!
Aside from the forest fire smoke that crept it’s way in to the Revelstoke area yesterday, conditions should be similar for several more days.
Cheers,
Paul Norrie
ACMG Mountain Guide
Revelstoke