[MCR] Mt Lefroy

We approached the Abbott Pass Hut from Lake O'Hara on July 6th. Three hours of heavy rain bought the approach gully to life with rock fall. One member of an amateur team had a large duffle bag sized rock impact just above him, where it thankfully spent much of its energy, then drop onto his back and roll over him. He was evacuated by helicopter suffering a broken tooth, lacerated lip and possible concussion.

A good freeze at Abbott Pass that night with winds switching to northerly. We were able to kick steps and move together to within two ropelengths of the summit. Had we stayed in the main part of the Right Hand Gully we would have been able to move together right to top (another guided party did just that). We were able to dig through 40-60 cms of snow to get to ice screws on the top half of the route while lowering on descent. Bottom half of the route required snow anchors in the still frozen conditions we had. Overall the route is in great shape.

No rain, and little rockfall, on our descent from Abbott Pass.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures