[MCR] More on the Bugaboos...

Spent the last few days in East Creek and we were able to climb Marmolata and the Kain Route on Saturday (July 11).

 

Conditions on Marmalota were somewhat slow and sloppy due to patches of winter snow that caused wet lichen, dripping corners and the occasional verglas sections.

 

The Kain route has quite a few snow patches on the lower third of the route but they were all avoidable.  We did need to get into the snow for about 30 meters just before the first bolted rappel station.  The rest of the route is dry. 

 

When we arrived on July 9th the total snowpack depth (HS) was 225cms and when we left on the 12th it was 180cms.  This rapid settlement however was not reflected in the alpine except on due south to west aspects.  Overall travel conditions were decent in the morning but broke down quickly as midday approached, with boot top to mid shin penetration.  Crevasses were starting to open on the East Creek side of the Pigeon - Howser Col but the Vowell and Bugaboo glaciers still had good coverage, possibly more now with the precip over the past couple of days.

 

Pigeon looked very snowy.

 

Cheers

 

Gord Irwin

Mountain Guide

 

Mike Stuart
Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide