[MCR] Rogers Pass Horseshoe

Spent the last six days in the Rogers Pass area doing a little traversing. Here's what we saw.

July 26 - Abbot/Afton/Rampart/Dome to Sapphire Col

Normal dry conditions. Scrappy getting to Dome col from the Lily side. 3L of white gas and a single ensolite at the hut.

July 27 - Castor/Pollux/Leda to Asulkan Cabin

Normal dry conditions on the Jupiter traverse. Snow almost all the way down from Asulkan Pass to the cabin.

July 28 - Young's Pk NW Face, descend N Ridge/Illecillewaet Neve traverse/Terminal N Pk SW Face/Terminal SE Pk N Ridge/descend Terminal via Vaux Glacier to Sir Donald bivy site

Young's NW Face has a strip of snow up the right side that was still there when I looked back at it today. Good travel on the Illecillewaet. Bergschrund easily crossed on Terminal SW Face. We just squeaked down the descender's right side of the Vaux Glacier on snow but by now I bet there will be a section of ice. Crevasses are opening all the way down the Vaux.

July 29 - Sir Donald NW Ridge and West Face Bypass on descent

Quite firm but kick-steppable snow on approach to the col, if you're in five-tennies it will be challenging. We were able to kick steps down the snow on the W Face bypass but this place will be changing daily. Crampons probably recommended until it melts away, which won't be long now. There was a major rockfall down the W Face about an hour after we crossed it. Witnesses from the trail below say it came right off the summit, was about 100m wide, raked the entire W Face including the bypass and ran a fair ways down into the talus and meadows below the mountain.

July 30 - Uto SW Ridge descend NW Ridge/Sulzer Tower/Eagle Pk SE Ridge descend SW Ridge

Normal dry conditions.

July 31 - Avalanche SE Ridge descend SW Ridge

Normal dry conditions. Ascent to the col is soft with recent rains but still unpleasant.

Other notes

Flowers are out in full force as are the bugs who have a hankering for your DNA

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Edith Cavell

Climbed E ridge of Edith Cavell yesterday. Excellent conditions, did not use crampons or ice axe. The few snowpatches we stepped on on the route were soft but icy underneath. Warm temps, 11C at the parking lot at 3am, 7C at the bottom of the ridge later in the morning so no freeze whatsoever. Quiet up there -- one other party that must have started way earlier than us or biviied. We descended the same way. Rain showers began at about 4pm and continued until Canmore...

Horrible traffic delays due to a bad accident north of Bow Summit meant we got home after midnight. Hopefully it's cleared up by now.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG

[MCR] Edith Cavell update

To add to Conny's post from a few days ago we climbed the East Ridge over Wednesday afternoon and Thursday morning, with a planned bivy in the saddle between the lower and upper ridge.  There are about a dozen steps you need to take in the snow, spread throughout the upper ridge, but this can be easily done without crampons.  The rest of the route is in great shape.

 

This bivy spot is much better than the normal one at the base of the route with lots of snow from the cornice for water and no rodents to speak of.  We descended the West Face route which is quick (3 hours) but the scree/talus bash is a bit of a grunt.  If you choose to go down this way you should take runners, bug dope, bear spray and a bike for the ride back to the parking lot.

 

Had to drive through Red Deer yesterday as a bad accident closed the Parkway 10km north of Bow Summit in both directions.  You might want to check the road report for the latest update.

 

Have fun!

 

Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary - July 29th, 2009

                              ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 29th, 2009.

 

Big changes in the alpine in the past week. Sunshine, warm temperatures and some warm rainstorms have removed much of the snow from all elevations. Lots of bare ice everywhere and that melting trend is likely to continue for the foreseeable future given the weather forecasts. This is both good and bad news, depending upon your hit list.

 

Pure alpine rock routes are generally in great shape. Watch for the lingering, melting snowpatchs that are spitting rocks and slush without much prompting from the sun or the rain. 

 

Many snow and ice routes are in poor shape, especially in gully lines, sun exposed and moderate elevation places. Rockfall and tedious climbing is what you would get from places like Mt. Lefroy right now. Don't even think of routes like the A Strain or Grand Central Couloir. My big concern is potentially HUGE rockfalls around ice faces that are melting and exposing rocks that haven't seen the light of day since last year or since the beginning of the last ice age. 

 

Glacier travel is really variable right now. Good freezes and travel some nights, multi day slush at other times. Crevasse bridges are getting thinner and obviously losing strength in the heat. It is a REALLY bad time for unroped glacier travel or even sloppy glacier travel techniques. 

 

Rivers and streams are running high right now. Even on the glaciers at times!

 

It is high season in the alpine and there is a lot of great climbing to be had right now. The big classic ridges and buttresses from Victoria and Sir Donald to the Howsers and the Tonquin are crying out to be climbed. Just make sure your route plan takes into acount the glaciated approaches and descents and that you are very concious of what is over your head.  

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Flight to Mt. Wilson 3

(See attached file: Mt. Olive 2.JPG)(See attached file: Mt. Olive.JPG)

Marc Ledwidge
Manager, Mountain Safety Programs
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks
220 Hawk Avenue
Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L 1K2
Ph: 403-762-1401

[MCR] Flight to Mt. Wilson 2

(See attached file: Mt. Baker.JPG)(See attached file: M.t Balfour.JPG)

Marc Ledwidge
Manager, Mountain Safety Programs
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks
220 Hawk Avenue
Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L 1K2
Ph: 403-762-1401

[MCR] Lake O'Hara July 29th, 2009

 Climbed Victoria S ridge today and descended Huber Glacier and Ledges. Victoria Ridge is in great shape. Huber glacier is getting tricky as crevasse bridges melt away. Abbott trail is in good shape.

 

The classic snow routes, like Lefroy and Glacier are looking nasty-lots of rockfall and bare ice. Bound to get much worse before they get better. Cathedral is icy but fine. Hungabee still needs a few more days to melt the ice off the west face and upper gullies. Tarrant Buttress is dry and Victoria south-north traverse is probably as good as it can get.  Huber east face is icy.

 

Tokkum and Opabin glaciers are getting icy.

 

Good luck.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@telus.net

[MCR] Sir Donald

Went up the NW ridge of Sir Donald yesterday. Route was essentially snow-free and in excellent condition, a bit moist from the multiple severe thundershowers the evening and night previous. The morning was moody and threatening but it ended up being a beautiful day for climbing. Rappel route on the W face is dry. Snow patches below the mountain were firm and settled. Temps at the pass Monday afternoon were around 30C, Tues afternoon around 25C so things have cooled off slightly.

Of note is the creek crossing to get to the lower bivi trail. It's a raging turbid torrent right now, and a better crossing is to continue up to the old bivi site, cross the creek there (flatter & easier), and contour across to the moraine where you'll pick up the trail to the lower bivi site easily.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG

[MCR] Icefields Area

Went hiking the previous two days in the Columbia Icefields area and noticed
a lot of change in terms of ice / snow conditions since my trip to Mt.
Athbasca last week. The glaciers and ice faces have turned to their usual
mid - summer shape: Only the upper parts of the Athabasca North Glacier
looks snow snow covered, Sliverhorn North Face looks largely icey now, the
Skyladder on Andromeda looks out of condition with lots of bare rock between
the ice and foreseeable rock fall hazard.

Generally speaking, the weather on Monday and Tuesday was very unsettled
with lots of rain showers, at times heavy...

Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IVBV / IFMGA)

OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Fay

Was up at the Neil Colgan hut over the weekend via the Perren route, and climbed the Center Ice Bulge on Fay and the NW ridge on Little.

 

The bergschrunds are starting to becoming problematic for both the Ice Bulge, the Roth/Kallen (which was very dirty with rockfall) and the descent off of the West ridge.  Make sure you study the places to cross while you are hiking to the base of the face.  The route itself was 90% ice with good gear and anchors all of the way up.  Both Mt. Little and the Perren approach were bone dry.

 

Glacier travel was slow and becoming a bit sporty with no overnight recovery in the snowpack.  Foot penetration was between boot top and waist in a few spots on the Fay glacier.  Careful probing and keeping the rope tight were critical for safe travel.

 

We had very unsettled weather with numerous squalls roll through and some mid morning and afternoon electrical activity.  We needed to constantly look over our shoulder to keep an eye on what was coming our way..

 

Hafe fun!

 

                        

Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Mt. Begbie-Monashee Mountains July 25-26

Guided two guests up Mt. Begbie's N Ridge (Normal Route) on Sunday.

 

Due to exposed ice, crampons are necessary at this point to ascend the glacier's toe. The snow covering the lower glacier is also rapidly diminishing exposing ice above the glaciers toe and making for weak snow bridges where there was less than 40cm of snow.  Careful probing as well as keeping the rope tight were two techniques used to keep from immersing oneself in many of the water filled crevasses.

 

Ascending from the glacier to the rock ledge currently presents little difficulty with the moat still full of snow, however this is changing rapidly and caution is needed to execute this maneuver safely.  A couple of .25" to 1" cams will allow You to build an anchor above the moat. 

 

Contrary to local rumor the bolts on the traverse ledge are IN place and in good shape.  

 

Of note were the millions of biting insects at all times of the day and night at the campground and some distance into the alpine. 

 

Darek Glowacki

ACMG Ski Guide/Assistant Alpine Guide

Revelstoke Alpine Adventures

Darek Glowacki

ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide

P.O. Box 699

REVELSTOKE BC

CANADA

V0E 2S0

ph# 250 837 5140(home)

email Darek@mail2skier.com

 

[MCR] Edith Cavel East Ridge

Climbed Edith Cavel East Ridge today. It is in great shape, we didn't have to put on crampons at all. We walked around the snow on the approach, another party crossed the snow and did use the crampons.  A few snowy sections warranted cutting steps with the ice axe, but it was never more than a dozen steps before jumping back on the rock.  Anchors along the way are tattered and worn so back them up.

 

Conditions could change with the next thunderstorm so be prepared for anything.

 

Conny Amelunxen

ACMG/IFMGA

---

Stay on top of things, check email from other accounts! Check it out.

[MCR] Mt Ball,SE Ridge, Banff Park, 0724

Yesterday we climbed Mt Ball via the SE Ridge and snow slopes from Shadow Lake. This route is mostly 4th class, a few short sections of low 5th class, moderate angled snow climbing and a little glacier travel. The route is in good condition, worth doing and a much more pleasant way to the summit then the approaches from the #93 highway side. A big day with 10K of hiking to the base and 4800 vertical from Shadow Lake.

 

Bike/hike to Shadow lake, just before the trail goes up to Ball Pass go north through trees to access the large east and south facing glaciated cirque on Mt Ball. Heading for the obvious col on the right scramble up to the base of the SE ridge. Climb the ridge, mostly 4th class on ok rock, the grey band and the black band's being the crux's, short lived low 5th class climbing. From top of ridge continue to summit via low angled summit glacier cap.

 

Alterative route, from the base of the black band move around to the climbers left of the SE ridge and ascend a 35 degree snow slope and then a 35 degree snow couloir to the summit of the SE ridge. Continue to summit via low angled summit glacier cap.  

 

Decent - ether route can be reversed depending on conditions. Left hand sky line in photo is the SE Ridge.

 

Cheers.

 

Mark Stewart

Cirrus Alpine Guides
IFMGA/ACMG Guides
www.cirrusalpineguides.com

[MCR] Bugaboos-Pigeon East Face July 25th, 2009.

Climbed the Cooper-Kor on the East Face of Pigeon today. Presently travel is good on the Bugaboo Glacier. Pigeon East Face is still weeping so we had some very entertaining summer waterfall climbing.

 

Pigeon West Ridge is almost pure rock now. A little snow and a couple of icy steps on the North side getting to the last pitch is all that needs to be negotiated.

 

Bugaboo-Snowpatch col is beginning to look less and less like a moderate ski run and is starting to show its true self. Lots of perched rocks on the Bugaboo side and the Schrunds are starting to yawn.

 

Crevasses generally are starting to open up all over the Bugaboos and the bare ice is getting harder to avoid.   Road is in pretty good shape.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@telus.net

[MCR] Robson and Silverhorn

To add to Tom Wolfe's Robson Posting earlier this week:

My client and I flew to the Dome on July 20th, immediately apparent to my eye was that the face looked to be in June conditions -a uniform shield of snow with no runneling visible. We kicked a track up to the face and checked out the bergschrund crossing (up track preserved on our descent). We walked away from our Dome camp at 03:45 BC time on the 21st. A strong overnight freeze and crust allowed us to ascend the face, but under the 10cm crust lay 70 cm to 1 meter plus of damp snow, I knew we'd be having challenges with the face on the descent once the crust broke down. The ascent to the summit and return to the top of the Kain Face as per Tom's posting. The firm surface had gone to isothermal wet oatmeal especially were the snow was shallow over ice.

I rapped 30 meters down onto the Kain Face at 17:00 to check it out and it was sloppy and ripe. The little 1 cm surface slough that glided away from my feet matured to a roaring, wet cement, size 2 avalanche by the time it gushed over the bergshrund. We resigned ourselves to digging a snow cave and waiting until morning to descend, or seeing if the helicopter that was coming to pick us up the next morning could pick us up then. It could, and we flew from the top of the Kain Face at 18:30, packed up our camp and flew down to the road. The face looked dramatically different flying away, several more days of hot weather should see it in normal summer conditions -runnels of ice and ribs of snow.

Climbed the Silverhorn Route on Mt Athabasca yesterday, July 23rd. A week overnight freeze on the glacier helped (3 mm crust?). Good travel on the glacier, the route was damp with water running to within 100 meters of the top of the Silverhorn. Descended via the AA col which is getting boney, and bonier. Little snow cover left below the upper basin. A party had been up the Hourglass Route on the 22nd.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

barryb3@telus.net

1 403 609 4615

cell 1 403 609 1321

[MCR] Temple SW Ridge (scrambling route) and Moraine Lake area observations

Climbed Temple yesterday up and down the scrambling route. Temps of 5
degrees at 5 AM at the Moraine Lake Paking lot. Route is in dry shape and we
didn't use crampons. There is a small patch of snow left right below the
crux, for which, when frozen in the morninig, an ice axe could be handy -
it's only 10 meters wide at best but wiping out would have grave
consequences. Given the current temps it'll be gone within a week's time.
Notable was that the snow right on the summit (3500m !) did not carry
already at 9.30 AM. I think all the haze in the air probably from the
Kelowna fires and a thin overnight cloud cover prevented a thorough
refereeze.....the snow underneath the crust is completely moist and soggy.

A few other observations en route:
The approach traverse to the Sentinel still has two large snowy patches
which make bringing boots / ice axe worth-while.
The Perren Route to the Neil Colgan hut looks snow free to the glacier
The "Center Ice Bulge" on Mt. Fay's north face is bare ice for the upper
half
The 3.5 Couloir (the large couloir visible from Moraine Lake) has avalanched
down to the ice at some point not too long ago and looks ugly (lots of
indication of current rockfall). The fractureline is about 2/3 up.

Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)

OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Sir Douglas

Back into Mt Sir Douglas near Burstall pass over the past few days.  

 

Clouds/smoke haze rolled in overnight Wed/Thurs and there was no re-freeze on the glacier.  At 3:30am the temp was +12C at 8000’ and it steadily warmed up after that.  Rockfall was steady throughout the night as the snow receded and foot penetration at the base of the glacier was boot top to shin deep.  The rockfall and the travel conditions made us decide to pull the pin early and retreat to the viscous clouds of mosquitoes closer to treeline.  

 

Another note, there was evidence of a previous size 2 avalanche that was likely caused by serac fall onto the glacier.  The fracture line was close to 60-80cm deep with the glacier ice as a bed surface.  This avalanche crossed the typical descent route burying it with snow and large chunks of ice.  Its warm out there…

 

Mike Koppang SG

Kananaskis Country Public Safety       

 

This email and any files transmitted with it are confidential and intended solely for the use of the individual or entity to whom they are addressed. If you have received this email in error please notify the system manager. This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mts. July 23, 2009

We've been blessed with a string of long, hot, sunny days in the Rockies and Interior since the last MCR Summary. Overnight temperatures have typically not dipped below the freezing level high into the alpine, but until the last couple of nights good overnight recoveries in the snowpack and even frozen surface crusts have been reported due to radiation cooling from the clear starry nights. Over the past few days, however, limited reports have been of very warm nights with no recovery high into the alpine and a steadily worsening snowpack.

As a result of our fine weather the climbing activity in the alpine has kicked into high gear. Alpine rock routes even on high north aspects (e.g. Greenwood/Jones on Temple's north face and Mt. Sir Donald's NE Ridge) are reported to be drying out and mostly good. Earlier in the week, glacier and snow and ice routes have also been climbed such as Athabasca's North Face and Silverhorn routes, Robson's Kain Route, Lefroy's West Face and Victoria's South Ridge.

Climbing conditions have been reported as generally very good. Deep snowpack areas (e.g. 1m+) have provided good, supportive travel with minimal foot penetration. Earlier in the week, shallow snowpack areas, such as near firn lines or on steeper faces, provided good travel early in the morning on surface crusts; but it's easy to be lulled into a false sense of security by this. Daytime warming melts the thin crusts quickly and turns snow that at 4am provided good steps into slop by 8am. The hot weather of the past couple of days has made this concern that much more serious.

Glaciers are still overall well covered but this is changing quickly as the snowline is receding and bridges are thinning out and softening in the heat. Rockfall is becoming an increasing concern as the snow that holds our rubbly ranges together is warming up and disappearing.

The bigger peaks are starting to get climbed, but many routes are in marginal condition requiring good overnight refreezes, strong experienced teams who get up early and move quickly, and a willingness to bivi on descents to wait (hopefully) for the overnight recovery.

Over the next couple of days a cooling trend with thunder storm activity is predicted. The 7 day weather forecast shows continued cooler temperatures with more good weather and winds from the northeast. This could mean a steady improvement in alpine climbing conditions if it brings overnight freezes to settle the snowpack into good summer condition.

Over the past week we've had more than 15 MCR reports covering probably twice that number of mountains in many of the Interior ranges. These reports are a great source of up to the minute beta on conditions and a valuable resource to everyone (including me writing this!); thanks to the guides who put time and effort into writing them, keep up the good work!

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG

[MCR] Hermit Group - Selkirk Mountains

Spent the last few days in the Hermit Group near Roger's Pass. We climbed Tupper, Roger's, Grant and Fleming.

We arrived in the area just as Paul Norrie and his crew were leaving (previous posting). Where that group found good recovery of the snow overnight, we had no freeze in the last several days. Foot penetration even at 5:30am was averaging ankle deep to mid shin. We experienced very warm days (and nights) and the smoke form the Kelowna area was not helping to drop the overnight temperatures. Creeks are running high and the remaining snow coverage is melting rapidly. Some rockfall and loose snow avalanches were noted as things really warmed up. On the positive side the rock routes are in great, dry condition.

Play safe!

Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

---

Attention all humans. We are your photos. Free us.

[MCR] Hermit Meadows

Just finished  a  few spectacular days of climbing in the Hermit Meadows, at Rogers Pass.  We climbed the Hermit Traverse, Swiss Peaks Traverse via the south ridge of Swiss Peak, and the Hermit Traverse via the SW/ SE Ridges.  Conditions were nearly perfect with good overnight recoveries in the snow gullies with softening during the day, good snow coverage on the glaciers, and dry rock on the ridges.  Made for fast and enjoyable travel!   Crampons were necessary on two of the mornings.

 

The 10-15cm of high elevation snow from a couple of weeks ago has essentially all sloughed off and the snowpack is beginning to feel quite a bit more settled on the solar aspects.  Lower down the snow is melting quickly and coverage is changing rapidly.  Several of the main snow gullies are beginning to melt out and will soon no longer connect with snow.  Cornices and point release avalanches are still a concern during the heat of the day.  We witnessed a significant chunk of cornice release from above the standard south gully decent on Mnt. Sifton.  The cornice chunks and rocks traveled all the way to the glacier below, wiping out the footprints from a party that had descended the gully the day before!    

 

Aside from the forest fire smoke that crept it’s way in to the Revelstoke area yesterday, conditions should be similar for several more days.

 

Cheers,

Paul Norrie

ACMG Mountain Guide

Revelstoke

[MCR] Additional Athabasca info..

Just to add to Mark and Jorg's posts from earlier in the week..

 

Climbed the Silverhorne on Monday in perfect conditions.  The bergshrund was easily passable and we could find ice screw anchors for every belay.

 

Enjoy!

 

 

Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Mt Robson - Kain Route

Went in to the Kain Route on Robson the old fashioned way on Monday to a camp at about 2400m on the glacier. Coverage and travel on the glacier was good but it's melting fast with the heat. Firn line was at about 2100m but rising fast.

We left camp at about 3am MST yesterday morning and got to the Dome via the Robson-Resplendent col ridge. Overnight temps were warm but clear, with a reasonably supportive radiation freeze crust. The Mousetrap looks doable, but the ridge added a bit of class and variety to the day and is straightforward and safe and isn't too far out of the way. The steep ice line left of the Mousetrap looks like it would go too right now, but maybe a bit sporty over the schrund.

We started up the Kain Face at about 7:30am, by which point the crust was still holding things together, but it would have been preferable to have been there a couple of hours earlier as the schrund crossing was a bit sporty in the heat and the crust was breaking down quickly. I was able to scrape down to ice for the belays on the middle three pitches, about 70cm down under sloppy snow.

The traverse and the Roof were in good shape with secure footing for the most part. We summitted around noon and descended in the typical thick mist of Robson's afternoon ballcap.

If you are planning a trip there in the near future you will want to have a cold clear night and an early start. You might also consider bringing along bivi gear and a stove, as we did, to the top of the Kain Face so that you can wait in comfort until the cool and safety of morning for the descent -- in its present condition it's a dangerous place to be much past early morning.

See attached for a variety of photos from the trip.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG

[MCR] Mt. Odaray

There was no freeze last night on the Odaray Glacier, but the boot
penetration was only about 10cm, which made for reasonable walking. The
glacier was some what broken, but can be passed more easily on the climbers
right side.

Getting from the glacier to the ridge was the crux of the day. The snow is
pulling back further and further with the hot days. This makes for about
30m of undesirable, low angle, loose rock to the first piton anchor, where
the rock quality gets much better. There are some snow patches between the
anchor and the ridge but are easily walked around.

The ridge itself is almost completely snow free and in good condition.

Aaron Beardmore
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Athabasca

Climbed Athabasca today Tue July 21 in perfect solitude up the ramp and down
the AA Col route. Overall very good conditions. Only 8 degrees at 4 AM at
the parking lot but still a good refreeze on the glacier with the clear
skies overnight. Someone had punched in a deep track in very soft conditions
across what used to be "the ramp", which makes for relatively stress-free
traversing underneath the Silverhorn in the morning while it's still cool.

The top of the usual AA col descent has turned into gravel which provided
some rock fall during our descent, even though it was relatively early
(10AM) and the snow was still frozen bone hard......I don't think I would
recommend it anymore for descending.

Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / UIAGM)

OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Victoria

Went up to Abbott Pass monday night and climbed Victoria S ridge today. Good conditions all around.

 

Abbott Pass trail much improved by recent traffic. Kudos to everyone who was pushing rocks off the trail.

 

Victoria S ridge in good shape. Dry rock climbing (very little verglas) to top of 1st step. Crampons on from there all the way to the summit and down to Huber glacier toe. Summit ridge has some sporty snow climbing but very few cornices. Travel was excellent on the ridge but the east face got soft in a hurry.

 

Huber descent is good but there is already about 40m of 45 degree bare ice in the lower descent gully. No fun in soft boots.

Still snow patches spitting rocks above the Huber Ledges.

 

Victoria traverse probably needs more radiation as the east face would be a scary place to be after 9am I am guessing. 

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Mt. Victoria

Climbed Mt. Victoria on July 20 via Fuhrmann Ledges and Abbott's Pass Hut
and descending via Huber Ledges to Lake O'Hara.

The snowpatch facilitating the climb to the Furhmann ledges from the Plain
of Six Glaciers is dwindling fast and the melting will soon turn this part
of the climb into it's usual "gravel grunt". Conditions on the south ridge
of Mt. Vic were very good with the good refreeeze that we had, however the
warm temps are softening the snowpack quickly during the morning!! The last
30 min of the ridge are quite sporty and require careful travel on the
pointy-snow covered ridge - again: Not so great, when the snow if soft or
even moist!

Descent to Huber Ledges in great shape with good boot kicking and the
glacier part is still fully snow covered.

Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Temple conditions

The Greenwood/Jones on Mt. Temple is in great shape.  Only a few patches of snow left which do not affect the route, otherwise rock is dry where it needs to be.
Summit ridge was easy walking, some big cornices still sitting over the black towers.  The Normal route is dry, kept the crampons on for the first 200m of the descent but they are not crucial.
Traveling as a group of 4 is now being enforced on the the Moraine Lake trails and Paradise Valley trails.

Lilla Molnar
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mt Athabasca July 19

The A/A col route on Mt Athabasca was in good condition today but getting thin and bony for the last 150m before gaining the col.

The North Glacier ramp route was also in good shape for the decent with the bergshrund and big crevasses on the ramp still well bridged.

Good travel conditions all around, zero foot penetration all day, last nights NW flow provided a solid freeze in the alpine.

The North Face and the Silver Horne routes were seeing traffic.

 

Cheers

M Stewart, IFMGA.

www.cirrusalpineguides.com

[MCR] Assiniboine

Conditions relayed by Aaron Beardmore MG:

Went to Assiniboine past 2 days. Climbed Strom and Sturdee in good
conditions but did not attempt Assiniboine. Good freeze last night. There
is significant snow from the red band and above. It looks like the route
would be manageable for a strong fast party as long as snow conditions
remained firm. The Gmoser highway was in good shape with a snow cone still
present before gaining the ledges. Crampons were used for this.

Stay tuned for more details later today.

Marc Ledwidge
UIAGM

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Ernest Ross, Tangle Ridge

Spent the last two days scrambling with a group form the U of A Outdoors Club.

July 18 - Sub summits of Mt. Ernest Ross (aka The Twins) - We spent a very warm and windy day on these peaks that are near the Cline River in David Thompson Country. Very little snow remains in these ranges and conditions are perfect for scrambling. A fair amount of bear scat was noted on our trip and two black bears were sighted near the highway where the route begins.

July 19 - Tangle Ridge in Jasper National Park - The scramble route on Tangle is in great shape as well. Not as warm today with more cloud cover and a cool breeze blowing off the icefields. Tangle Creek is easily crossed to access the route (see Kane's book description) near the cairns, and the upper route is mostly dry, with only a few snow patchs near the top and a long stripe of snow along the edge of the ridge. No signs of bear activity, but the mosquitoes are getting hungry!

Last night was a bit stormy with a fair amount of rain, but it did not appear to deposit any significant snow (if any at all) at higher elevations.

Have fun,
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
RESCUE DYNAMICS
www.rescuedynamics.ca

---

More storage. Better anti-spam and antivirus protection. Hotmail makes it simple.

[MCR] Windy Range, Northern Selkirks, July 18th, 2009

Spent the last two weeks guiding in the remote Windy Range of the Northern Selkirks with the ACC General Mountaineering Camp.  We were able to climb most of the high peaks in the area (Neptune, Trident, Escarpment, etc) and enjoyed the sunny weather of the past week. 

 

The heat of the past several days has meant little or no freezing overnight up to mountain top (3000m+).  As a result the snowpack has been disappearing rapidly on all aspects and numerous wet avalanches were observed in steeper terrain.  We were very cautious about venturing into steep snow terrain or areas with potential for snow melt induced rockfall.  Creek crossings have also gotten quite sporting with the melting.  Glacier travel remained good in the deep snowpack areas (1m+) while shallow snowpack areas are isothermal with weak snow bridges.  Lots more bare ice showing every day.  Rock routes were dry and in good shape on all aspects.

 

Lots of fun climbing to be had but start early, keep the rope tight on the glaciers, and watch for exposure to steep snow slopes until the snow cools down or settles out a bit more in this area.

 

Enjoy the great weather!

Conrad Janzen
IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com

[MCR] Lake O'Hara neighbourhood

The heat has been turned on now that the monsoon is over. The big snow slopes are still mostly snow covered but there has yet to be a solid overnight freeze this week. Big and frequent wet avalanches have been running in the sun and that will probably continue for a while yet.

 

Climbed Odaray, Lefroy and Huber in the past 3 days. Rock was dry but snow was moist. Today the east facing summit snowslopes on the normal route on Huber were getting spooky by 10am. 

 

Lots of big snowpatches are still melting out on the rock faces too. That means LOTS of rockfall in the daytime heat.

 

Biddle is probably climbable(why?), Hungabee will still be a rockfall nightmare on the normal route for a while yet. Tarrant Buttress is drying out on the lower steep ground, big drifts on the easy ground up high and maybe snow in the last pitches.

 

Finally, the Abbott Pass trail from O'Hara is in mediocre shape. The monsoon has spilt lots of new rocks over the upper 1/3 of the trail and has turned the scree descent from the helipad down into a firm gully. BUMMER! The big canyon that spits boulders onto the lower trail still has lots of snow in it-consider that gun to be still loaded.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@telus.net

 

 

 

 

 

[MCR] Rock fall on Edith Center Peak

Just to clarified things.  The rocks went past the trail leaving craters.

Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Rock fall on Edith Center Peak

I guided the Kain route on Mount Louis today with one guest.  We were heading back down the Edith Pass trail when suddenly I heard a big Noise and a HUGE section on Mt. Edith Center Peak broke loose.  We were in thick forest but through a gap I saw the whole thing.  We had to run up hill to make sure we were out of the way!  We could hear Volkswagen size rocks crashing thru the forest.  I hate to think what the outcome would have been like if we were 5 minutes further.

Marco Delesalle
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

[MCR] Lefroy, Fuhrmann Ledges

Up Furhman ledges, then up snow covered west facing slopes on north end of Lefroy to north ridge, down west face. Yesterday with a guest at a moderate pace it took about 15 hrs to Lake O'Hara with a 2:30 am start from Lake Louise. It was a beautiful day with lots of sun and periods of cloud later in the day.

Getting up to the Fuhrmann ledges is pleasant with firm snow patches giving some reprieve from the miserable talus. The ledges are mostly dry and travelled well.

Despite warm temps and a cloudy night (+7C, overcast at the parking lot at 2:30 am, +8C at 9 am on the west side of Lefroy) travel was overall very good with ankle to boot top penetration. The route is still in great shape since Rich's post, and with the recent storm snow the normal W Face is even better than it was when I was there a week ago -- good, secure steps top to bottom. When we descended around 1:30 pm the upper half of the face was still firm while the lower half was softening up, wet with up to mid-calf penetration. We were glad for cool, cloudy afternoon skies and the fact we weren't coming down much later in the day. Glissading created moderately sized slow sloughs.

Lots of activity on the E face of Victoria starting early in the morning -- up to size 2.0 wet avalanches running into the Death Trap and regular, albeit minor, serac fall.

Regards,
Tom Wolfe

[MCR] rock shoes left at Grassi

Not my usual post, but I left my brown Anasazi velcros below Brave New Plan at Grassi Lakes on Wed, July 15th. I'd love to get them back.

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

barryb3@telus.net

1 403 609 4615

cell 1 403 609 1321

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mts. July 16, 2009

The alpine conditions are in transition with more melting moving the neve
line higher and variable snow conditions depending upon the location and
time of day.

Good travel conditions have been reported when there has been a freeze, but
in many places there is a thin crust that is breaking down early and mid
calf foot penetrations are not uncommon. Thinner crevasse bridges, trickier
bergshrund crossings and concern for cornice falls seems to be a common
theme from the reports in both the Rockies and Columbias.

With mainly sunny skies and warm temperatures forecast through the weekend
this means that many alpine routes should be possible, but an early start
is in order to get down and off the snow before it gets too soft and the
avalanche danger rises. Rockfall potential is another thing to keep in mind
as the snow melt keeps exposing more loose stones higher up the peaks.

Rock routes throughout the ranges are reported in good shape with only a
few lingering snow patches at higher elevations.

Enjoy.

Brad White

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide.

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Aberdeen

Up Aberdeen with Percy Woods today.  Temps at the Chateau at 5:30 were +9 so no overnight freeze including up high.  Good conditions on the route.  The schrund is easily passable with snow all the way to the rock band.  We were through the steep snow early and I am not sure we would have felt that good being there later in the day without the freeze.  Penetration was only boot top in most places but there is definitely moist snow over ice.  The sun was hitting the upper slopes by 9:30 am.  There were a few weak crevasse bridges to negotiate on the glacier bench.  There is still enough snow on the descent to minimize the bone jarring scree.

 

Marc Ledwidge

Percy Woods

ACMG/UIAGM

[MCR] Bugaboo Conditions

Up at the Kain hut from July 11-15. Great travel conditions on the Crescent, Vowel and Pigeon glaciers with penetration in the late pm only to boot top despite no overnight freeze. All the routes of the Crescent Towers area are dry; NE Ridge on Bugaboo has snow on the very bottom of the route but otherwise dry (I suspect that the upper chimneys still hold snow); Kain route is dry and in good shape. West facing Snowpatch Routes in good shape. W ridge of Pigeon is dry to the small col between the 2^nd and 3^rd summits. Snow from there to the summit; we did not use crampons but did take ice axes. Bugaboo/Snowpatch col is in good shape with the schrunds just starting to show with good footing and a nice line of steps up it. We had a great day craging on the nice cracks of lower Applebee Dome.

 

Cheers

 

James Blench

UIAGM

[MCR] More on the Bugaboos...

Spent the last few days in East Creek and we were able to climb Marmolata and the Kain Route on Saturday (July 11).

 

Conditions on Marmalota were somewhat slow and sloppy due to patches of winter snow that caused wet lichen, dripping corners and the occasional verglas sections.

 

The Kain route has quite a few snow patches on the lower third of the route but they were all avoidable.  We did need to get into the snow for about 30 meters just before the first bolted rappel station.  The rest of the route is dry. 

 

When we arrived on July 9th the total snowpack depth (HS) was 225cms and when we left on the 12th it was 180cms.  This rapid settlement however was not reflected in the alpine except on due south to west aspects.  Overall travel conditions were decent in the morning but broke down quickly as midday approached, with boot top to mid shin penetration.  Crevasses were starting to open on the East Creek side of the Pigeon - Howser Col but the Vowell and Bugaboo glaciers still had good coverage, possibly more now with the precip over the past couple of days.

 

Pigeon looked very snowy.

 

Cheers

 

Gord Irwin

Mountain Guide

 

Mike Stuart
Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide

[MCR] Abbott Pass and the Death Trap

July 10-12 we hiked from Moraine Lake over Wenkchemna and Opabin Passes, up to Abbot Pass and down the Death Trap to Lake Louise. The Moraine Lake to Lake O’Hara was generally good travel with typical snow for the year. The glaciers are still well covered and crossing Opabin Pass easy. Crampons were not needed.

The Abbot Pass gully was pretty quiet for rocks, although the party behind us reported a near miss from rock fall. There were numerous avalanches to size 2.5 from Glacier Peak and Lefroy. Tempting though it might be for strong parties that get to the hut early, Lefroy is not a good choice for an afternoon ascent under these conditions.

I do the trip up from Lake O’Hara to Abbot Pass about three times a year, and find the big gully up to the hut to be most dangerous early in the season. The path that goes across the whole gully low down is not a safe one for July since it is highly exposed to rock fall from both sides and avalanches from Lefroy. Your best bet is to hug the left wall under Victoria until you reach a large gully that often spits large rocks. Cross the gully quickly and up again to the protection of the Victoria. >From there you can cross onto the snow ridge in the middle.

No freeze overnight made the early morning descent through the Trap easy. The big crevasse is well covered and should be easy to cross for a few weeks yet. The Icefall was pretty quiet. It would take a really big ice fall to reach the descent route, and in my experience big ice falls are preceded by a number of small and medium falls from the same spot and every few minutes as the ice deforms in preparation for the big event. Making the effort to monitor frequency and size of ice falls as you head into the Trap is a good idea before committing yourself. The most exposed section took our slow party 20 minutes to cross. A fast team could be through in 10 minutes or less.

Albi Sole
ACMG, IFMGA

via

 

Peter Tucker

ACMG Executive Director

ed@acmg.ca

403-949-3587

403-689-4324 (mobile)

 

[MCR] Vacation reply

I will be away until Friday July 17th and returning e-mails then.
Thank you.

Andre Ike
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.westcoastmountainguides.com
604 892 9529 H
604 892 4050 C

[MCR] Bugaboos July 12th,13th 2009.

Walked into the Bugs on a warm july 12th evening-conditions looked great for almost all the rock routes. Rain starting around 8am on the 13th(monday) and it rained most of the day and looked like more to come. No snowfall to the top of Pigeon at 2pm. Nil avalanche activity observed.

 

Good travel still on the glaciers and to the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col when things are cool. Some ice starting to show in places and at low elevations. Howser east face schrunds still looked manageable but sporty for ascending.

 

Road in fair shape. Survivable in a city-slicker Subaru with 5 people and gear.

 

Larry Stanier

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

laristan@telus.net

 

 

 

[MCR] Rockies: Brazeau

Walked into Brazeau yesterday via Pobotkan Creek and climbed it today. 

We found the guidebook description for the approach a little confusing but if you take the left hand fork at the head of the valley and then trend up right on goat trails between the two cliff bands it works fine.

No freeze and soft snow conditions today as reported elsewhere in the range.

It's a good time to do this peak as the scree/talus on the upper part of the approach is soft  and easy walking due to the recent rains and the scree slopes on the peak itself are covered in 10-20 cm of good kick-stepping snow (that snow won't last long).

Loose snow avalanches up to small size 2 and a thin slab on a steep east aspect size 1.5, all in the recent storm snow.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com

[MCR] Kokanee Glacier Park - Silver Spray

Spent July 9-11 doing day trips out of the Silver Spray Cabin.  Snowline was sitting at about 2350m (just below the elevation of the hut).  Above this elevation, the heavy rains of July 6 & 7 had moistened the snowpack making for post holing in shallow areas but reasonable step kicking otherwise.   Gaiters were a must.  No overnight recovery on the 11^th despite clear skies all night (warm temps).  Of note was an old size 2.5 avalanche that ran 300m down to ice on a north aspect of Glacier View Peak (see photo).  The Silver Spray – Woodbury traverse has isolated snow sections that make for easier travel when soft but could be mostly skirted if frozen hard.  Summit ridges on Mt. McQuarrie, Sunrise Mountain and Evening Star Peak were all dry.

For those planning a trip into the Silver Spray Cabin, note that the coordinates are off in both Jim Scott's Backcountry Huts book and the ACC website.   The correct grid reference is 934187 NAD27.

Cheers,

Shaun King
Mountain Sense Guiding & Instruction
www.mountainsense.ca

[MCR] Mt. Athabasca AA Col

Climbed Mt. Athabasca today via the AA Col with a group from the ACC Calgary Section.

At 3:30am this morning it was +10 degrees, which was a little concerning, but thankfully the temperature steadily dropped as we gained altitude. There was not a good freeze overnight, but the snow was reasonably supportive in most areas. Above the bergschrund we experienced ankle to mid-shin boot penetrations with a 2 to 3cm thick crust on the surface of the snow. This made for good steps on ascent, but was a little tricky and annoying on the descent. The bergschrund is still easily passable. The upper mountain is in excellent condition with easy travel conditions.

We were glad for an early start given such a warm day. There were several loose snow avalanches and rock fall triggered on the big walls of Mt. Andromeda as we descended. The snow on the glacier was very weak by 11:00am. We talked with a party who climbed the north glacier ramp route and they reported soft snow conditions as well.

Have fun!

Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

---

Internet Explorer 8 makes surfing easier. Get it now!

[MCR] Little Yoho, July 9, 11

Climbed Isolated Peak and Mt McArthur via the southeast glacier on July 9th. Good step kicking into 15 cms of new snow the consistency of spongy whale fat, didn't use crampons. Descended via the southeast drainage between McArthur and Pollinger which works, but is not as good as going back the way we came.

July 11th we climbed the President and Vice President. Good step kicking up the glacier with the new snow mentioned above settling quickly, we put on crampons. Bergschrund at the col was passed on the President side and this passage should be useable for awhile. Vice President was climbed directly from the col via a snow gulley. The sun and warmth started some snow moving in point release avalanches on east slopes by noon.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains. Thursday July 8, 2009

A stormy week this week for the mountains has changed the overall
conditions somewhat.

Monsoon type rainfall early in the week saturated the snowpack and created
a few full depth slab avalanches on steep glacial ice. As temperatures
cooled, the snow line came down to approximately 2600 metres. The new snow
has accumulated up to approximately 15cm at the higher elevations, and is
also insulating the rain soaked snow so that a crust has not yet formed.
The ACMG alpine training school in the Rockies this week climbed Aberdeen,
Lefroy and Athabasca, and they were reporting good travelling on ridge
crests and packed snow but postholing on open snow slopes. They also
reported sagging crevasse bridges and tricky glacier route finding with the
uncertainty of the bridge strength.

With cool showery weather in the forecast at least through Saturday
evening, the conditions will be slow to improve. However, just one clear
night would likely be enough to create a good strong crust in the rain
soaked layer and snow travel will be good again. Expect some loose
avalanching in the new snow before it settles.

Another concern is rockfall. With more snow melt this week when the rain
was falling, lots more loose rock has been exposed. A party approaching
Abbott's pass earlier in the week was hit by a very large rockfall that
could easily have been much more serious. Pay attention to the temperatures
and try to travel in exposed areas while things are frozen.

Lower elevation rock climbs are in good shape, but the pattern of afternoon
showers and thunderstorms is dictating an early start on a shorter route
that can be finished early, or alternately something that is easy to
retreat from.

The conditions in the Columbias sound similar, with snow lines around 3000
metres.

Brad White
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Nlhaxten Conservancy/Ceriese Ck

Just spent a few days up at the new Cereise Ck/ Nlhaxten Conservancy.

 

Precip on Tuesday fell as snow above 2100m. Up to 20 cm accumulation near Anniversary col, now melting rapidly. Many small sluffs out of steep snow slopes/Joffre gullies etc. Good summer snow travel conditions otherwise.

 

Of note, the old logging road has been completely deactivated, including ripping out the main bridge across Cereise Ck. There is 2 sketchy log/timber options in place, but on Sunday the water flow was torrential so we opted to take the winter route for ½ hour until we could get across the creek at the ol log bridge crossing (now long gone, with just a rope remaining) just before North Joffre Ck. Knee-depth water crossing worked quite well, but have to use your nose to make the winter route work, as the trail is not well defined once you get past the marshy bits.

On the way out we took the full summer trail, and waded across the significantly less torrential creek.

 

Brian Gould

MG

 

 

[MCR] Mount Sir Donald, NW Ridge

Climbed the Northwest Ridge of Mount Sir Donald Sunday 5 July, 2009.

The route is snow free from the col to the summit if you stay on the ridge proper. The West Face bypass still has a fair bit of snow, we choose to descent the upper NW Ridge (7-8 single rope raps plus downclimbing) to the bolted raps (8-10 25m raps plus scambling). The last bolted raps are free of the snow.

The col bivi is free of snow but the lower bivi is still fairly snow bound although there are bivi spots to be found and the toilet is usable.

We climbed in Trango like boots which were very nice on the snow covered approach to the col and the moist snow after the raps. No crampons or ice axes were used but an ice axe would probably be appreciated if it was a colder evening or we had an earlier approach.

There is great information about the rap route at the Visitor Centre at the pass. Remeber a backcountry pass is required to bivi, availible at the Visitor Centre.

Chris Atkinson, Mountain Guide

[MCR] Mt Lefroy

We approached the Abbott Pass Hut from Lake O'Hara on July 6th. Three hours of heavy rain bought the approach gully to life with rock fall. One member of an amateur team had a large duffle bag sized rock impact just above him, where it thankfully spent much of its energy, then drop onto his back and roll over him. He was evacuated by helicopter suffering a broken tooth, lacerated lip and possible concussion.

A good freeze at Abbott Pass that night with winds switching to northerly. We were able to kick steps and move together to within two ropelengths of the summit. Had we stayed in the main part of the Right Hand Gully we would have been able to move together right to top (another guided party did just that). We were able to dig through 40-60 cms of snow to get to ice screws on the top half of the route while lowering on descent. Bottom half of the route required snow anchors in the still frozen conditions we had. Overall the route is in great shape.

No rain, and little rockfall, on our descent from Abbott Pass.

Happy trails,

Barry Blanchard

UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Pigeon Spire Bugaboos

Here is a photo of Pigeon in the Bugaboos to add to Jorg's poste.

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Bugaboos - Pigeon Spire

Todd G. and I returned from the Bugaboos on Sunday evening after taking our
clients to Pigeon Spire on Saturday. Overnight refreeze on Saturday was
marginal and consequently the climb to the Bugaboo -Snowpatch Col was pretty
soggy but still easy to travel with ice and rocks well covered by snow.

We went to the first summit on the West Ridge without encountering any snow
en route. A guided party did (probably) this season's first ascent of the
true summit the day before and reported that crampons and ice axe were
essential with the strong overnight refreeze that they had at the time.

We descended via the Bugaboo Glacier, which required crossing two crevasse
bridges high up on the descent. Those bridges will likely not last over the
summer and a good overnight refreeze is recommended when choosing this
route. The glacier is snow covered all the way to the level where the route
traverse to the left to gain the moraine and traveled well in spite of the
soft snow.

Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Howsons 5 July 09

The snow is slow to leave the Howsons. All glaciers are still snow
covered to their toes. The creeks and rivers are past their peak and
crossings should be come easier, particularly during cool mornings.

--
Christoph Dietzfelbinger
IFMGA/ UIAGM Mountain Guide - Bear Mountaineering and the Burnie Glacier Chalet
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. V0J 2N0 Canada
tel. 250-847-3351/ fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Sir Donald

What started out as a late start from Revelstoke, for a casual day on Uto, ended up being a beautiful day (by ourselves)on Sir Donald yesterday.  We turned back on the summit block due to some threatening  cloud formation to the west, but enjoyed good conditions up to there.  More lingering snow than my other experiences on the NW, but totally climbable.  Pretty much clear to the summit block.  A bit white above that.  Would expect to find a few slow sections along the final traverse to the summit??

 

Campground is essentially still under full snow cover and an ice axe was comforting in several places along the route, including the lower portion of the bolted descent.  West face bypass was doable yesterday with only an ice axe, but had a few snow patch sections that were a little bit entertaining.  Passable but not yet recommended.  With an overnight freeze you’d need crampons and it would be a bit sporty!

 

Of note, on the drive home to Revelstoke we observed four notable natural slab avalanches to size 2.5 – 3.0 from NW aspects directly below ridge crest.  Three were cornice triggered, one (the largest) did not appear to be.  Snowpack in the alpine, north quadrant still definitely deserves some serious respect until the temps cool down.

 

Paul Norrie

Mountain Guide    

 

[MCR] The Ghost (and The Wraith)

Just back from a trip into the Ghost. Very busy there right now with
lots of groups camping.

It seems there are no active operations (logging etc.) happening
anymore, but beware, the road in as far as the Big Hill is as chewed
up as I've seen it. Lots of manholes. Still quite passable by
passenger car, but you'd better not be in a hurry. (Either that or
just bring a rental!) The big hill and the rest of the roads/
crossings in the South Ghost are in average summer shape, with not
much water running.

A note on "The Wraith": It now has a bolted station on the 4th pitch.
Don't know when that happened (it's been a few years since I was on
it) but I thought I might not be the only one to whom it was news.
This means that with 60m ropes it can now be climbed to the gully and
descended without building any anchors. Sort of dilutes the flavour a
bit, but it was nice to have the surprise option amongst all the
thunderheads yesterday.

Carl Johnston
RG
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] MacDonald

Climbed Flick/Jager route (Middle rib W face) yesterday. The bush bash after the slippery log creek crossing was a typical Selkirk rain forest experience. (Wear your devils club chaps and carry a chainsaw) Approach gully melting out and becoming undermined by the creek. The route was in excellent condition. Descended down SW ridge to the narrow couloir in the col. ( 10 m. rap in and still snow to the base of the gully. )  The top half of Sir Donald looked fairly snowy on the N face. Tupper looked dry and the approach couloirs on the S face still appeared reasonable.

 

Craig Ellis

Mountain Guide,

 

 

[MCR] Mt Aberdeen and Haddo

Two parties climbed the normal (north glacier) route on Mt. Aberdeen and Haddo today. Overall conditions are excellent.

Despite a relatively balmy morning temperature of 7 degrees at Lake Louise, the snowpack had frozen well at higher elevations. Some rockfall and icefall were noted, beginning around 6:30am near the toe of the glacier. Travel conditions were excellent with well frozen snow on the approach and mid-glacier and nice soft ice on the pitchs at the glacier tongue. Things were warming up during the morning and we experienced up to ankle deep boot penetrations on the upper glacier which provided for excellent step-kicking conditions. Crevasses seemed well bridged (for now) and the bergschrund is easily passable. We were happy to have started early.

We descended SW from the summitt of Aberdeen to the south face which is also in good condition. There is a significant amount of snow in the normal gully, making for relatively easy travel and helps to save the knees. We stayed on the Aberdeen side of the tributary stream and the main drainage where there is now a faint trail developing that leads through some minor bushwacking for about 1 km before regaining the old trail down Paradise Valley. This option avoids two (or three) river crossings where the old bridges have been removed.

Play safe!

Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

---

Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live™ Messenger. Check it out

[MCR] NE Ridge, Mt. Victoria N Summit, Lake Louise Group.

Climbed the route from the Plain of Six Glaciers on July 3.

We left the parking lot at 0430 and found the snow to be softening
fast enough on the steeper S facing terrain that we probably should
have left 1 hr earlier.
Lower angle parts of the glacier remained supportive until ~1330,
while the steeper terrain leading up the the Victoria-Collier Col was
softening by ~0930.

Although it is possible to climb to the V-C col entirely on snow at
the moment, we climbed up one of the rock steps just to the left as
the line of continuous snow has some loose scree melting at the top of
it, which produced one rockfall. A few pieces of rock gear may be
useful if you choose this option. Snow remained dry on the N facing
aspects above the col. Near the rock step on the upper ridge, there
is only 5 - 10cm of snow overlying ice.

Josh Briggs
ARG ASG

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary July 2, 2009

ACMG MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS SUMMARY FOR THE ROCKIES AND COLUMBIAS; July 2, 2009.

 

The past week of summer weather has dried off many routes with sun exposure up to the 3000 metre level (10,000’ for our American friends).  Above this level you can expect to find significant snow and wintery conditions especially at the Columbia Icefields.  Most reports indicate conditions typical for early July although a few days ago there were still reports of windslab concerns at the Columbia Icefields.

 

Elsewhere in the Rockies, strong overnight freezes have created excellent conditions on steep snow routes.  With early starts and timing that allows getting off steep snow before radiation breaks down stability, routes requiring steep snow travel should be in good shape.  Keep in mind that during the solstice, the sun will come around quickly.  The main and front ranges are essentially dry although a flight by the top of Castle today showed a lot of snow on the summit ridge over to the descent gully.  The more committing routes such as the Temple North Face and East Ridge routes, the Goodsirs, Hungabee or Edith Cavell will be a few weeks yet.  The popular SE ridge of Victoria will be quite difficult on the Summit ridge with cornices still present.

 

Reports from the Bugaboos indicate good early July conditions.  As long as you are on sun exposed routes and not on the higher objectives such as the NE ridge of Bugaboo or the Becky Chouinard, you should encounter only minimal amounts of snow to negotiate.  The Bugaboo Snowpatch col is in good condition but again, careful evaluation is required later in the day.  Significant rock fall events are common there.  There have been no reports from Rogers Pass but it is likely that the normal route on Tupper is in reasonable shape.  The Swiss Peaks are also probably manageable with some snowy sections.  Sir Donald likely still has snow and wet sections on both the classic route and the descent.

 

The weather still looks good into the weekend but all bets are off after this.

 

Marc Ledwidge

ACMG/UIAGM Mountain Guide