[MCR] Rogers Pass

Climbed Sir Donald NE Ridge Aug 19 and Uto SW Ridge Aug 20. Both routes up and down are bone dry, including the W Face Bypass in Sir D. There are a few snow patches on the upper approach trail that could be bypassed if they are too hard to walk across in the morning. No crampons or ice axes required.

Some other observations:

- Vaux glacier still has decent coverage on the upper bench, the tongue is dry, the crevasses on the Sir D side of the tongue have snow plugs.

- Young's Peak face is icy.

- Asulkan Glacier below Sapphire Col looks still passable on the normal "ski line".

- The snow face on Rogers looks like it has good coverage although you would need to make an end run around the schrunds.

- Overall the glaciers look like they have OK late season coverage.

- It was quite smoky there!

Good luck to all the guide course candidates over the next two weeks!

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com