Took two guests up the skyline (west) ridge of Hungabee today. Where the regular route traverses at the top of the big snow/ice face, we continued straight up for 7 pitches of mid 5th on decent rock. Finished on the very spectacular upper North Ridge. Descended the route with around 8 rappels to join the regular route. Left a bunch of gear up there for rap anchors. There was a couple of anchors low down on the upper ridge but no sign of traffic up high.
I feel it is the safest route on the peak. I would certainly never reccomend anyone climb Hungabee, but if you are going to and can move fast on mid 5th, it is the adventure way. The traverses out on the upper WSW face of the regular route are often insecure, icy, sideways and threatened by acres of scree fall.
Still lots of stonefall hazard on the west face. We worked hard to stay way out climbers right on the descent. It is more difficult but much safer in the afternoon heat. We saw one NASTY volley of rock strafe the snow and ice face. One should assume it would be unsurvivable.
Opabin Glacier in ok shape for august.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide