[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 05, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 05, 2010 Looks like summer has arrived in the Rockies with the usual pros and cons that come with this time of year. A look at the positive side, routes are becoming noticeably dryer with a decreasing snow pack. This is making travel on classics like Victoria south and other Lake Louise rock peaks reasonable and enjoyable again. Rogers Pass and the Bugaboos seem to be in perfect shape with ascents of most towers in the Bugaboos, and Sir Donald and surrounding peaks in Rogers Pass. On the less positive side, more regular afternoon storm cycles seem to have picked up adding the need to start early on both rock and alpine objectives. Another disadvantage on the snow climbs has been the lack of overnight freezing. Despite very early starts, some evenings are not allowing the snowpack to recover and are making glacier travel and steep snow travel an increased hazard. With this, the potential of cornice failure and rockfall is also expected and things like the Bugaboo Snowpatch col will become an increasingly less viable option if the warm temps continue. As Larry mentioned last week, most alpine routes are in excellent shape. Ascents of Sir Donald, Assiniboine(NE Ridge), Temple(East Ridge), and Robson(Furher ridge) have all been reported over this past week. Still questionable in terms of their usual climbing condition for this time of year, are Edith Cavell and some of the other larger peaks such as Hungabee or Alberta, or the Southeast Ridge of Robson. Where there still is snow, expect that increased risk of cornice failure, rockfall and mushy snow travel. With the long weekend over, hopefully the greatest hazard to negotiate for all mountain travel- driving the transcanada and surrounding roadways- will start to minimize! Enjoy the summer conditions, start early, and drive safe:) Sarah Hueniken ACMG Alpine Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.