Hi All:
Both Larry Stanier and I guided the east ridge on the 4th and a group of Jasper Park Wardens heli climbed the upper section too. The route is overall in good shape and mostly dry. We used crampons for about 40m early in the morning on the ascent and walked cramponless on the descent. I would not take them if I went again for the upper mountain however there is still a lot of snow getting up to the initial col with the bivy corrals so crampons may be useful to that level. Larry descended via the west ridge and I returned via the east.
Cheers
James
James Blench
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