August 16th we climbed he South Ridge of Victoria from the hut via Abbots Pass and descended the Huber Glacier. We saw the same conditions Mark Klassen spoke of in his report.
August 17th and 18th we had hot sunny days and climbed Grassi Ridge and Little Odaray.
On August 19th we ascended the Huber ledges to Mt Huber and Mt Victoria, temps were much cooler with overcast skies and the cooler NW winds.
Conditions had deteriorated with warm temps over the previous 2 days. More ice was exposed on the East face of Mt. Huber, and the lower glacier has some awakening holes. The bridge over the second shrund is melting out, below the exposed rock that separates the upper and lower Huber glacier.
The ascent / descent gully of Victoria had nearly dried out with lots of exposed rocks. This descent could become a rockfall zone, with stacked parties and/or warm temperatures.
Some of the snow sections on the East side of the ridge are melting back to ice, and need caution.
Andrew Langsford
Mountain Guide