[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 26, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 26, 2010 It's starting to feel like autumn in the mountains. Last Sunday a storm blew through and deposited snow in the alpine in both the Rocky and Columbia Mountains and as I write this another weather system is moving through the western ranges. Significant amounts of precipitation is forecast for the continental divide and west. Webcams are showing wet pavement in Revelstoke, Rogers Pass and Golden; a late breaking report describes a lightning storm with rain and hail at Mt Sir Donald this evening. Radar shows that showers have also hit the Rockies. Freezing levels are forecast to drop to around 2500 m or lower. In the Rockies there is presently enough snow on rock ledges at upper elevations to cause an increased concern for rockfall on exposed routes when the snow is melting. Expect high elevation rock routes to be more difficult than they were a week ago with insecure and slippery footing due to the snow and verglas. The storm snow from last weekend seems to have sloughed off steep snow and ice faces and gullies leaving them in much the same condition as they were before: hard snow and ice with decent coverage for late summer. Schrunds are large and crevasses at the firn line have tricky bridges and snow plugs to negotiate. In the Columbias there was not as much snow and Mt Sir Donald was free of snow before tonight's storm rolled through. If the forecast is correct the weather for the next week will not improve things much as it is supposed to be generally unsettled after tonight's precipitation. Expect a bit more snow (in both the Rockies and Columbias) and upper elevation routes to remain in poor condition until some sun comes in to begin cleaning things up. If I had my druthers I would be heading for rock climbing or scrambling in the front ranges of the Rockies where it hasn't snowed and the forecast is for drier conditions. Some alpine rock routes in Rogers Pass or the Bugaboos may be possible in the next week, but no promises. Otherwise I would be heading to snow and ice routes after the snow forecasted for tonight has sloughed off and when warm temperatures are not creating rockfall issues. Mark Klassen ACMG Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.