Up the NW ridge on Wednesday under almost perfect conditions. If you stayed on the ridge the whole time it was bone dry and crampons/axe were not needed. This may have changed with the current weather pattern.
Neptuak was mostly dry as well with only one or two snow patches close to the summit that were easily passed. The bivy in the col (between the peaks) still had running water but it won't be long until it freezes up as it was just a trickle.
It worked well for us to climb both peaks and descend to the bivy on Wednesday, and then head back up and over Neptuak and out on Thursday. We left Moraine Lake parking lot around 7am.
Have fun!
Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine Guide
ACMG Alpine Guide