[MCR] Rockies: Forbes/Lyells

Another West Side Story. On Aug 5 we did the 3.4 hr approach method to Forbes and on the 6th climbed the E Ridge/N Face with a descent down the W Ridge. Still good snow coverage on the mountain although the firn line is in the 2700 m range on the Mons Icefield and North Glacier.

Aug 7 we walked Division Ridge to the Lyell Hut and today (Aug 8) we climbed Lyell 1 and 2. By 7 AM a cold front had hit and whiteout conditions on the high summits caused a retreat back to the hut. More snow coverage on the Lyell Icefield than on the Mons. 

Overall conditions are still good in this zone although the snowpack is starting to thin out and crevasses are starting to become slightly problematic. No recent avalanche or rockfall activity was noted. There were a few small icefalls but it didn't seem to be as noisy as last week in the Alexandra area.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

www.alpinism.com