Climbed all three Guinness routes today with an early start and a fast guest.
The first pitch of Guinness Gully won't last much longer, there was water running behind the ice in spots and screws seemed kind of pointless. There were also some signs of recent rockfall, wouldn't have wanted to be there any later in the day.
The rest of the climb was in good shape, and Guinness Stout & High Test were both fat and plastic. The descent gully was fairly easy going, although it's getting a bit icy in spots.
J. Mills
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.cdnalpine.com
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