[MCR] Carlsberg Column, Yoho National Park, Canadian Rockies (March 23)

Carlsberg Column, Yoho National Park, Canadian Rockies (March 23)

-1 C departing the car at 8 a.m. and 5 C when we returned to the car at noon. Overcast skies all morning kept the sun hidden, which made me a happy guide. It would be best to put crampons on at the car as the approach trail is pure ice.

Believe it or not, but the so-called "approach" pitch felt like the crux. Currently, it is a three-foot-wide, six-inch-thick curtain. It felt fragile but luckily it is riddled with rattly, insecure hooks so I didn't need to bash. Definitely wouldn't put screws in it as they would poke right out the other side. Unless that is your thing, I would recommend doing the scramble around right to get to the climb proper (I would myself next time).

The main climb is really wet but offers excellent ice--the one swing kind of stuff that dreams are made of. There wasn't a single hook, which was a pleasant change from the standard beaten-out, late-season ice. In retrospect, I wish I was wearing full Gore-tex today instead of soft shell. Did I already say it was wet?

Sean Isaac

ACMG Alpine Guide