The climb is in good shape right now. There are a few lines that have been travelled heavily, offering good placements and solid screws throughout. There are currently 2 caves on the route (beginning and middle sections) that offer full protection for the belayer.
The sun hits the route around 1015 and stays on it for about an hour. Cryophobia (beside Hydro to the right) is quickly melting away and poses a substantial hazard to people hiking up to the base of Hydro as well as the "gear up" spot at the edge of the forest. The upper 2 pitches of Cryo will not last much longer and were constantly dropping chunks of ice yesterday.
We walked from the North Ghost (unpleasant at times) in a little over 3 hours. In spots the snow is still thigh deep. Telus cell phone reception all the way to the base of the route.
Have fun and be safe!
Mike Stuart
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide
ACMG Alpine/Assistant Ski Guide