As an update to Barry Blanchard's post from yesterday, Friday's snow has melted off most of the rock and the 5.7 corner through the first rock-band offered warm bare-handed rock climbing today (as opposed to the "spicy" snow covered rock that Barry encountered). We kept crampons on though as there are still slippery bits.
On the upper headwall, we opted for a variation farther left, which provided us with enough spice--thin verglass in an offwidth. The step kicking snow gully out right that Barry took is still holding snow and at least one party behind us used that as their route to the ridge.
The whole face gets full sun around 8 a.m. causing small rocks and ice chunks to fly down.
Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide