We managed to be the first of 4 parties today on Louise Falls. There were about 10 cm of fresh snow at the lake level and temps of -12 when we left the parking lot around 9 AM. The climb is in good condition with the crux pitch being a bit drippy. The easiest line for the crux curtain from the center of the cave is pretty sporty (as usual) and all but hacked out. Fortunately, bridging between two columns keeps the grade around the guide book rating of easy WI 5. Of note is the fact that once the sun was out, the climbers right side daggers immediately to the right of the climbing line made noises while we were belaying in the cave. There is also a settlement crack visible but the daggers seem to keep hanging on for the time being as they are connected on the side to a larger column that has pretty good support. In summary, have a good look before you start and choose your route wisely if at all you want to expose yourself to the Louise Falls overhead hazard.
Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
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