Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
[MCR] Rockies, Crowfoot Pass
Guided a ski tour to Crowfoot Pass today, March 31. We parked on the highway and went direct into the drainage to the northwest of Bow Peak. About 30 cms of new snow. Good travel to treeline. At treeline we got two large whumpfs and settlements on low angle ground. I could see no safe way to gain the pass via the large open slopes and bowls next to Bow Peak so we decided to shoosh back into the trees. There is a size 1.5 slab avalanche out at treeline on the NW ridge of Bow Peak. I assume that it was a slab that went during the March 28/29th storm. I could see another slab out higher up that looked to be the same deal -March 28,29. While climbing back up to do some yo-yoing I spotted a small morraine 500 meters to the NW. We traversed along a bench at treeline to it, and were able to gain the large bench that leads to Crowfoot Pass by it, with 10 meters of boot pack facette wallowing (hip deep coarse sugar snow). We toured to Crowfoot Pass and retraced our tracks down with some fine boot top powder skiing along the way. Numerous storm slabs size 1-2 out on the big rock wall NE of Crowfoot Glacier.
[MCR] Simpson Pass/Healy Pass
Ski toured and winter camped March 28 - 30 with Yamnuska's Mountain Skills
Semester in the Simpson Pass/Healy Pass area. During this time we received
37 cm of new snow accompanied by moderate to strong winds. We experienced
significant whumphing and some cracking, especially at tree line and above.
Semester in the Simpson Pass/Healy Pass area. During this time we received
37 cm of new snow accompanied by moderate to strong winds. We experienced
significant whumphing and some cracking, especially at tree line and above.
Field tests were giving easy results within the storm snow and the March &
February surface hoar layers. The north-east aspects were particularly
unstable, with one 30 degree lee slope at 2250 m giving consistent very easy
results down 60 cm on surface hoar and facets. [The test columns were
sliding off during cutting.]
Natural avalanches could be heard coming off of Quartz ridge throughout the
day of the 29th, but poor visibility hindered an accurate assessment of
their size.
We chose to avoid avalanche terrain and stuck to slopes that were under 20
degrees with no overhead hazard. We also strictly avoided terrain trap
features.
Ski quality was quite good, with 35 cm of powder over a melt-freeze crust
that was mostly supportive, especially on solar aspects. Given the angle
restrictions on the slopes we skied, we didn't produce much in the way of
Powder 8's, but we did some enjoyable Powder 11's!
Play safe and be careful out there!
Nicholas Rapaich Assistant Ski Guide / Assistant Alpine Guide
Grant Meekins Assistant Ski Guide / Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
[MCR] Selkirk Mountains, Goat Range, west of Kaslo
Went for an exploratory trip up London Ridge today. We skied on a
mostly southern aspect following a series of logging roads. The roads
provided an efficient way to the top, we reached our high point of 2200m
in no time. Ski crampons proved useful as we ascended a crusty rib to
the ridge after we ran out of road.
mostly southern aspect following a series of logging roads. The roads
provided an efficient way to the top, we reached our high point of 2200m
in no time. Ski crampons proved useful as we ascended a crusty rib to
the ridge after we ran out of road.
A sun crust that varied from 10-20cm in thickness was keeping things
together above 1500m. Cooler temps and the insulating effect of the new
snow was keeping the crust solid. Underneath, the snow was isothermal
and wet. I wouldn't want to be around here when the crust finally warms
up and breaks down.
There was new snow from about 1500m and up. On the ridge, the storm
snow varied from almost nil on the crust to 40cm deep in wind pockets.
It seemed to be bonded well to the crust and hadn't formed much of a
slab yet on the south aspects (we didn't get to any northern aspects).
I'd expect it to stiffen up as temperatures rise over the next few days.
It was spring at the highway this morning (+2C) and winter on the ridge
just after noon (-8C) during a squall. We were pinned down at the top
for about half an hour with strong northwesterly winds and blowing
groupel. When it ended, the sun came out and we headed down.
The ski quality was excellent in dusty powder for about the first 3-400m
down before it deteriorated to dust on schmoo. We then slid down the
roads following our skin track for a challenging but uneventful trip
back to the highway.
The London Ridge tour is in big terrain. Some of the roads cross large,
open, avalanche-prone slopes. We weren't sure what to expect today, so
we went with the attitude that we would turn around if things looked
dicey. Fortunately, luck was with us. We had good visibility which
allowed us to choose roads that didn't cross any big slopes, and to
follow a rib that lead us safely to the top of the ridge. The good snow
conditions we found up there (thick, bridging crust, lack of slab in the
storm snow, and the good bond to the crust) allowed us to choose a fun
ski line back down instead of the scratchy, wind-blown but safe rib we
came up. Had these favorable conditions not come together for us, we
would have turned back early and gone home.
Play safe out there.
Craig Hollinger
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Monday, March 29, 2010
[MCR] Wapta Traverse March 25-29
My second trip guiding across the Wapta in two weeks.
March 25, we were able to ski in via Peyto Lake, and Glacier this time (avoided it last time due to the avalanche cycle of March 12/13).
26th to Bow Hut and some good skiing on the glacier tounge.
27th up Mt Gordon then onto Balfour Hut.
28th gained the high bench to Balfour High Col via the morraines. We were able to cross the crevasses at the top of the bottle neck on climber's left (away from Mt Balfour), then ascend onto the top of the broad rounded ridge to the east (further away from Mt Balfour). Got whited out at the col and had to ski by compass and GPS to the Scott Duncan. Moderate southerly winds gusting to strong, and constant snow all night.
29th, my birthday, happy fresh 30 centimetres! We avoided the big slope below the east face of Mt Niles again and skied on the valley flats to where it cliffs out. There we climbed back onto the Schiesser/Lomas exit as we did on March 21st:
skied down the valley bottom flats instead to about 8500 feet where we ascended an east facing slope to regain the Schiesser/Lomas bench (15 meters of boot packing).
Got three whumpfs on flat ground rounding onto the Schiesser/Lomas bench. Great skiing down to treeline, then connecting glades down into the creek.
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
Sunday, March 28, 2010
[MCR] Selkirks and Rockies
The geographical area for this post is kinda broad but conditions are kinda the same.
The bottom line is that conditions continue to be touchy and dangerous with high consequences if an avalanche is triggered. If you golf, surf, rock climb, mountain bike, watch TV, read magazines or drink beer these all may be good options to skiing right now. Pull the boards back out when we have a big, fat melt freeze crust on the top of the snowpack.
If you are interested in specifics, read on:
The Assistant Ski Guide Exam started in Moberly Pass in the northern Selkirks on March 20. Over the next 4 days it snowed 20-30 cm. That, combined with mostly poor visibility and 4 layers of surface hoar in the top meter of the snowpack had us pinned in the trees for a couple of days. March 23 was a bit better and some of us actually got onto a glacier but we had to tiptoe gently on the flattest pieces of terrain possible and away from overhead hazard. We can take a hint so we bailed on March 24 on the first sunny day we had, the sun of course starting to trigger avalanches to size 2.5 in the environs of the camp by 8 am.
We moved to the Rockies where we could access terrain that was broad, flat and away from the worst overhead hazard. Things were still touchy, with one avalanche triggered remotely from a ridge on Observation Peak, March 25. This avalanche was a size 2+, propagated a good 100 m, most probably on surface hoar. We were on relatively benign terrain but the avalanche ran on a 45+ degree unsupported slope, east aspect, 2350 m. It pulled back onto the low angle ridge for a meter or so. Other large avalanches were also observed that day, probably triggered by warm temperatures.
March 26-27 were spent between Bow and Peyto huts. There was continued evidence of instability in that region, with a size 2.5 avalanche running off the Bow headwall and coming close to the uptrack sometime between 1300 on March 25 and 1200 on March 26. There were reports of skier triggered avalanches on the Diableret Glacier.
If you still want to go then choose low angle terrain away from overhead hazard, and make sure you have a very reasoned decision making process to commit to anything. This is no time to let desire get in the way of rationality.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com
Saturday, March 27, 2010
[MCR] Bow Summit
A beautiful afternoon today at Bow Summit. Still some decently soft skiing left especially on anything that tips remotely northerly. Unfortunately that is also were you find the surface hoar buried about 35 cm deep and well preserved (10 – 12 mm) at this typical treeline terrain. Frequent wumpfs and easy to moderate sudden planar shear make for a pretty spooky feeling. I attribute the lack of skier triggering to the lack of cohesiveness in the slab where we skied, but that could be different in areas with different slab characteristics, i.e. wind loading or warming for example.
We also saw some recent (typical spring) slab avalanches on the south-westerly aspects of
We also took a peak at the beautiful male Grizzly that is hanging out at the usual “bear-hang” on the CP rails - I’m sure you know where – unfortunately it’s probably just a matter of time that we’ll read of his demise in the paper…..
Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717
[MCR] Rockies - Guinness Gully, Stout & HighTest
Climbed all three Guinness routes today with an early start and a fast guest.
The first pitch of Guinness Gully won't last much longer, there was water running behind the ice in spots and screws seemed kind of pointless. There were also some signs of recent rockfall, wouldn't have wanted to be there any later in the day.
The rest of the climb was in good shape, and Guinness Stout & High Test were both fat and plastic. The descent gully was fairly easy going, although it's getting a bit icy in spots.
J. Mills
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.cdnalpine.com
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The first pitch of Guinness Gully won't last much longer, there was water running behind the ice in spots and screws seemed kind of pointless. There were also some signs of recent rockfall, wouldn't have wanted to be there any later in the day.
The rest of the climb was in good shape, and Guinness Stout & High Test were both fat and plastic. The descent gully was fairly easy going, although it's getting a bit icy in spots.
J. Mills
ACMG Alpine Guide
www.cdnalpine.com
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Friday, March 26, 2010
[MCR] Rogers Pass / Illecilleweat Glacier - March 25
Went up the glacier up on the ridge behind Mount Lookout.
Good skiing in sheltered areas above 2400m, below a mix of supportive, melting and breakable crusts. Some isolated pockets of hard shallow windslabs, which were easy to skier-trigger on the approach to Lookout notch.
We found the surface hoar down 80-90cm on the glacier in a sheltered area below
Still a great day to be out, though a few cm of fresh wouldn't hurt.
Thomas Exner
Mountain Guide (IFMGA / ACMG)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717
[MCR] Kananaskis / Burstall Drainage
Snowing moderately today until about 3.30 pm with temps around -3C while
playing around in the low angle, southern aspect avalanche fans above the
gravel flats on the way to Burstall Pass. Total accumulation only about 5
cms on the crust, which made for pretty decent skiing since the crust
carried on the low angle southern aspect without trees that we skied.
Moderate to strong westerly winds made for impressive wind transport at
ridgeline in the late afternoon.
playing around in the low angle, southern aspect avalanche fans above the
gravel flats on the way to Burstall Pass. Total accumulation only about 5
cms on the crust, which made for pretty decent skiing since the crust
carried on the low angle southern aspect without trees that we skied.
Moderate to strong westerly winds made for impressive wind transport at
ridgeline in the late afternoon.
By the time we left the sun was out again......
Thanks to the AB Wardens for keeping the Beacon Basin alive and powered up!
Cheers,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / VDBS / IFMGA)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Selkirk Mountains, Goat Range, near Kaslo
Just came back from four days of ski touring near Kaslo. Spring is in
full force in the mountains, although we managed to find some decent
powder skiing on northern aspects.
full force in the mountains, although we managed to find some decent
powder skiing on northern aspects.
A crust exists on all aspects below about 1900m except for the true
north. Southern aspects have been baking for a while and have thick,
laminated crusts that softened on Wednesday, our hottest day of the
trip. Snow from the last storm on the solar aspects was snowballing by
early afternoon Wednesday.
A good re-freeze overnight allowed us to venture to the south on
Thursday to find the crusts were well formed and bridging everything.
We even had good corn-like skiing there.
A system passing through Thursday night and Friday morning kept the
temperatures above freezing at 2000m. We skied down Friday morning to
the valley in heavy snowfall on almost breakable crust (thankful for fat
skis!). The system dumped about 10cm before ending by noon. What was
left of the snowpack below 1800m was isothermal (same temperature from
ground to surface) and wet.
Stability tests on northeast and southeast aspects at 2100m gave
generally moderate to hard results with fast planar shears on a number
of layers in the top 80cm of the snowpack. The crystals on the failure
planes were surface hoar on the shaded aspects, and crusts and probably
surface hoar on the solar aspects.
Although the snow seemed stable, the consequences of triggering one of
the deeper layers would be huge. We tiptoed around the mountains
sticking to simple terrain. We chose our routes carefully to avoid big
open slopes with overhead exposure, and solar aspects in the afternoon
heat. Northern aspects offered the best skiing, but we stayed off
slopes steeper than 30 degrees and went around convex rolls. Despite
our cautious approach, we managed to find a lot of fun skiing.
Play it safe out there.
Craig Hollinger,
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Rockies - Mt. Fable S. Ridge
Climbed the South Ridge on Mt. Fable a couple of days ago. Conditions were mostly dry and excellent until the upper rock pitches. Snow on the crux pitches & summit ridge made it more challenging than normal but a few more days of this heat and it should be mostly dried out.
The approach up the creek from Exshaw was easy going with a good trail punched through the remaining patches of snow.
Descending from the summit we found it easiest to head down the ridge for about 5 minutes and then drop off skiers right (North East) onto scree, NOT onto the West side as the guidebook says. From there it was easy to contour around to the col.
A few midsize cams, a set of nuts, and 1 rope did the trick. Pitons would be usefull if you ended up having to descend the route. There were some fixed anchors that would help if you had to rappel but they were in bad spots for belaying. Crampons were not needed.
Also climbed the ESE Ridge on Lady Macdonald (5.5) yesterday. It was dry in all of the difficult sections. Perhaps this is old news but the hangers have been removed off most of the bolts.
J. Mills
ACMG Alpine Guide
info@cdnalpine.com
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The approach up the creek from Exshaw was easy going with a good trail punched through the remaining patches of snow.
Descending from the summit we found it easiest to head down the ridge for about 5 minutes and then drop off skiers right (North East) onto scree, NOT onto the West side as the guidebook says. From there it was easy to contour around to the col.
A few midsize cams, a set of nuts, and 1 rope did the trick. Pitons would be usefull if you ended up having to descend the route. There were some fixed anchors that would help if you had to rappel but they were in bad spots for belaying. Crampons were not needed.
Also climbed the ESE Ridge on Lady Macdonald (5.5) yesterday. It was dry in all of the difficult sections. Perhaps this is old news but the hangers have been removed off most of the bolts.
J. Mills
ACMG Alpine Guide
info@cdnalpine.com
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[MCR] PWL followup
The PWL paper and problems I refer to in my last post are primarily aimed at folks heading into the Columbia Mountains of BC's interior ranges and the South Chilcotin Range of the South Coast Mountains. I encourage you to check avalanche bulletins for the region you are going into to assess if PWLs are a problem there. If they are, the advice in the paper applies to most PWL situations. If, after checking local avalanche bulletins, you are uncertain about whether PWLs are an issue or if you are in an areas with no avalanche bulletin, I suggest you consult with knowledgeable local avalanche professionals like ski area control teams, park rangers or wardens, etc. to determine if you are likely to encounter PWLs on your trip.
Karl Klassen
Mountain Guide
Public Avalanche Bulletins Manager
Mountain Guide
Public Avalanche Bulletins Manager
Canadian Avalanche Centre
[MCR] another persistent weak layer winter
Clearly, we again find ourselves in a winter where persistent weak layers are playing a significant role in snowpack stability and avalanche hazard. And it's not over yet. While the likelihood of triggering an avalanche is significantly less than it was even a week ago and the number of avalanches being reported are down significantly in the last few days, the size of avalanches that are being triggered is remains quite large. This is typical of a PWL avalanche cycle and right about now is when people often make serious errors in judgement by assuming the problem is gone.
A couple of seasons ago, the CAC published a paper I wrote about the 2007-2008 PWLs. I have posted that paper on the CAC website at:
I used the above paper as the foundation for another one that discusses this year's problems and focusses on risk management advice. You can find this season's paper at:
http://www.avalanche.ca/cac/library/researchandarticles/PWLpaper0910
I urge everyone to exercise discipline and be vigilant. The layers we are dealing with are not going away any time soon. In some locations, they will almost certainly remain an issue right to the end of the season.
Karl Klassen
Mountain Guide
Mountain Guide
Public Avalanche Bulletins Manager
Canadian Avalanche Centre
Thursday, March 25, 2010
[MCR] South Coast Range ~ Overlord Glacier
Hope this finds you all keeping well and enjoying the Spring ski-touring.
I toured out to Russet Creek, up the Overlord Glacier to Whirlwind Peak, and down Whirlwind Pass today.
The surface snow on north-facing terrain up to approximately 7000' (nearly the same elevation as the peak of Whistler Mountain) became moist by midday with the warm temperatures that invaded the coast region today. Above that elevation, the snow was drier and more winterlike. Moderate winds from a southerly direction was moving a little snow around on the lee (north) sides and those same winds were mildly affecting the surface of that north-facing snowcover.
We put the rope on to crest the main breakover of Overlord Glacier. There were many large sags here but some passable routes through this crux. The hot and dry weather of this past summer season hammered the glaciers around here leaving larger than average crevasses by the time the November snows began to fly. The snowcover bridging the crevasses is deep in many places but the effects of the hot summer is still evident with the outline of many of the larger 'slots' still obvious.
The alpine south face of Mount MacBeth saw some natural avalanche activity today with several large/long loose snow slides that began as 'point releases' from solar-heated rocky outcrops.
A firmer layer of snow down approximatley 15cm from the surface on north sides provided a good 'base' for skiing and it carried down to at least 5500'.
The skiing down Whirlwind Pass was a little 'grabby' but very skiable.
The Singing Pass trail out to Whistler Village was in reasonable condition but it is beginning to slowly erode as Spring wears on. A couple of waterbar/creek crossing required some Cirque du Soleil acrobatic manoeuvering to get over to the other side, but all in all the trail out is not too bad (be careful of some icy gully crossings and watch out for the open creeks).
Wishing Everyone safe and fun Spring ski-touring.
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Asst. Ski Guide
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I toured out to Russet Creek, up the Overlord Glacier to Whirlwind Peak, and down Whirlwind Pass today.
The surface snow on north-facing terrain up to approximately 7000' (nearly the same elevation as the peak of Whistler Mountain) became moist by midday with the warm temperatures that invaded the coast region today. Above that elevation, the snow was drier and more winterlike. Moderate winds from a southerly direction was moving a little snow around on the lee (north) sides and those same winds were mildly affecting the surface of that north-facing snowcover.
We put the rope on to crest the main breakover of Overlord Glacier. There were many large sags here but some passable routes through this crux. The hot and dry weather of this past summer season hammered the glaciers around here leaving larger than average crevasses by the time the November snows began to fly. The snowcover bridging the crevasses is deep in many places but the effects of the hot summer is still evident with the outline of many of the larger 'slots' still obvious.
The alpine south face of Mount MacBeth saw some natural avalanche activity today with several large/long loose snow slides that began as 'point releases' from solar-heated rocky outcrops.
A firmer layer of snow down approximatley 15cm from the surface on north sides provided a good 'base' for skiing and it carried down to at least 5500'.
The skiing down Whirlwind Pass was a little 'grabby' but very skiable.
The Singing Pass trail out to Whistler Village was in reasonable condition but it is beginning to slowly erode as Spring wears on. A couple of waterbar/creek crossing required some Cirque du Soleil acrobatic manoeuvering to get over to the other side, but all in all the trail out is not too bad (be careful of some icy gully crossings and watch out for the open creeks).
Wishing Everyone safe and fun Spring ski-touring.
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Asst. Ski Guide
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Wednesday, March 24, 2010
[MCR] Monashee Mountains, West of the Perry River, NE of the Gorge non motorized area, March 24th, 2010.
Just finished 6 days snowcat supported ski touring in the Western side of the Monashees, north of the Trans Canada Highway. As I am sure everyone on the planet has heard, conditions are still tricky there and triggering large avalanches on surface hoar down approximately 1 meter is still a grave concern.
Conditions seem slightly better in this neighbourhood than elsewhere in the Columbias. LOTS of observations of the snowpack have kept us comfortable skiing on some moderately steep south facing terrain where we know there are some sun crusts up to 8 cms thick above the surface hoar layers. We are only skiing this terrain one at a time after cold clear nights and before the full heat of the day and the sun is on them. This may change if the forecast for snow is correct.
North and east facing terrain still has us spooked, especially during the recent warm spells. The weak layers are still there above 1400m but in all our observations are buried by a sufficiently strong and widespread slab. That is why we have stopped getting whumphs and cracking. This only means that the slab is harder to trigger but the consequences remain catastrophic. On these aspects in our neighbourhood, the alpine is generally less of a concern than treeline. I believe I have never so consistently and continuously used safety measures to spread out my load on the terrain.
It is a bit like hanging around with a polar bear tied up with 7mm cord. You want to see it cut loose from far away and it is definitely uncool to poke at it.
Having said all this we have been having some excellent skiing and been cautiously exploring some big new terrain on the cold days and pulling in on the reins during the warmth.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
laristan@telus.net
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
[MCR] Haffner Creek and Icefields Parkway Ice Conditions
Spring has arrived early in the Rockies, and many of the popular ice climbs are not long for this world. Mild temperatures and strong solar affect have taken their toll. We found the following conditions.
Balfour Wall, Tangle Falls, Melt Out - Sun affected ice with significant meltout at the tops. We overbuilt anchors (using v-threads, screws and trees). With more sun and warm temps these climbs will soon be done for the season.
Two O'Clock Falls - Seeing sun until 1pm. Still winter ice for the most part, but sections of sun affected ice were found. Again, overbuilt anchors and checking them throughout the day.
Shades of Beauty - This North facing climbing had virgin, winter ice, hard for the grade at the moment.
Haffner Creek - Most of the mixed and ice climbs here are done for the season. Sun and above seasonal temps have melted away the snow on the ledge above the climbs, leaving exposed, loose rock and mud. Any free hanging pillars are cracked, sun baked and ready to fall. We climbed on the left hand flow, which was sun affected but still well formed and supported, we avoided exposure to rockfall from the ledge above. It was -3 at 9am and by the time the sun was poking through the clouds at 12pm, we were walking out of the canyon. There is evidence of a significant rockfall event on the right hand flow in the past week, with a mud streak down the ice and several toaster sized blocks at the base. See attached photo.
Temperatures: Low -12 high +4, winds were generally light from the SW. Partially cloudy skies and 3cm of snow over the week.
It is time to think about putting away the ice tools, unless you are on a true north aspect, and preferably at a higher elevation. If you are on a climb like this where a winter snowpack still exists, consult the local avalanche bulletin and pay close attention to the current conditions as far as new snow, wind, and temperatures. The touchy conditions of this winter have been surprising even veteran guides.
Enjoy a safe spring!
Jason Billing
Assistant Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
[MCR] Carlsberg Column, Yoho National Park, Canadian Rockies (March 23)
Carlsberg Column, Yoho National Park, Canadian Rockies (March 23)
Believe it or not, but the so-called "approach" pitch felt like the crux. Currently, it is a three-foot-wide, six-inch-thick curtain. It felt fragile but luckily it is riddled with rattly, insecure hooks so I didn't need to bash. Definitely wouldn't put screws in it as they would poke right out the other side. Unless that is your thing, I would recommend doing the scramble around right to get to the climb proper (I would myself next time).
The main climb is really wet but offers excellent ice--the one swing kind of stuff that dreams are made of. There wasn't a single hook, which was a pleasant change from the standard beaten-out, late-season ice. In retrospect, I wish I was wearing full Gore-tex today instead of soft shell. Did I already say it was wet?
Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide
Sunday, March 21, 2010
[MCR] Icefields Pkwy: Crowfoot Glades
Skiied up in the Crowfoot area today, to skier’s left of the actual glades on an open north aspect. At that exposed alpine location and elevation (2100 metREs), there was only evidence of one of the upper problem layers (down 35 cm) but it was primarily facetted. I had to look pretty hard to find surface hoar crystals but there were still some little buggers in there. High moderate results with weak fracture characteristics plus an absence of surface slab made for 3 great laps. Trail breaking (N, NE aspects) up through the trees wasn’t too bad at about 15 cm of ski penetration, although there was the odd (and sometimes even) facet hole lurking.
The Parks Canada bulletin weather forecast was pretty much spot-on with light convective flurries and cloud all day which kept the temperatures down and solar heating virtually non-existent – it stayed below zero all day. We started out with about 3 cm of new and probably another 1 cm fell during the day.
Ken Bélanger
TopCog Adventures
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
CAA Level 2
[MCR] Rockies, Wapta Traverse, March 16-21
Guided the Wapta traverse March 16-21.
16th opted to ski into Bow Hut rather than Peyto given the avalanche cycle on the 12th and 13th. It seemed like a safer approach given the number of skiers who had been in and out on those days and the fact that many of the slopes that could be triggered had been triggered by them. We witnessed a size 2 avalanche release from about 7500 feet on the east aspect of Mt Jimmy Simpson at 11:00. The avalanche ran 3/4 of its path and was triggered by the sun. We got two settlement whumpfs when we left the set track, to ski around avalanche debris from the morraine, on the flats below Bow Hut.
17th we traversed to Peyto Hut through a white out and storm. Got one whumpf when we stepped off of the glacier below Peyto Hut. Winds sifted to the north overnight and blew strong at the ridgetops.
18th we switch backed up a wind scoured ridge on the SE end of Mt Rhonnda and traversed to the summit then skied down to Bow Hut. The skiing on the glacial tongue above the hut was great.
19th a clear day. Climbed Mt Olive and traversed to the Balfour hut. Lots of wind affect on the icefield, winds switched back to west/southwest.
20th traversed the high bench to Balfour High Col. Moderate west winds with strong gusts. The bottleneck slope between the nunatak and Mt Balfour was wind scoured with old skitracks elevated in some places. Crevasses are well bridged. The snow at the high col is wind sculpted and slow to ski, less wind affected the lower you go. Skied up a 9500 foot peak 1 km NE of Mt Daly after getting to the Scott Duncan Hut. Got a settlement at 9000 feet on the NW corner of the peak were the wind had layed in a thicker slab.
21st white out and moderate wind from the south. We skied out the Schiesser/Lomas exit with another guide party. A compression test on the edge of the large east facing slope below Mt Niles gave easy results (two taps from the wrist) on clean planar shears (sudden planar) 10 and 50 cms down -we chose not to cross this slope but skied down the valley bottom flats instead to about 8500 feet where we ascended an east facing slope to regain the Schiesser/Lomas bench (15 meters of boot packing). The first party up triggered a cornice which fractured but only slabbed its top 30 cms off. This triggered a size 1.5 slab from the 30 degree slope below. While traversing on shallow ground 100 meters higher a second size 1.5 was remotely triggered from a parallel slope of the same aspect and angle. We skied down the skier's left side of the bench here giving the corniced slopes on the right as wide a birth as possible. When we turned onto the south and west aspects we were pleased to find a supportive sun crust holding everything together. The rocket ride down to Wapta Lodge wasn't as fast as it could be given it was holding some new snow.
I'd rate the hazard in this drainage as High in the Alpine, Considerable at Treeline, and Moderate Below Treeline today, and advise not cutting across the slope below Mt Niles
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.yamnuska.com
[MCR] Rogers Pass: Dome / Lilly Loop
On the Dome to Lilly Loop yesterday, Sat Mar 20. Lots of avalanche activity from the storm last weekend, in particular along the Lilly Glacier on the moraines below, and the steep slopes that threaten the ski out from skiers right. Not much more left up there to worry about. A big avalanche ran onto the steeper slopes of the Lilly glacier from high up skiers left. Any lingering surface hoar layers would have released with this impact.
On the way up to the Dome we couldn't find any layers of concern above about 2300 -2400m.
Below, many fracture lines in fairly low angle terrain is enough evidence that the surface hoar layers are still out there. Some of theses avalanches also ran into flat terrain. All slopes that haven't released yet should be treated with the necessary caution.
Ski quality in the alpine wasn't too bad, though pretty wind affected.
Lower down a mix of sometimes breakable crusts and moist snow made for an entertaining ski out.
Thomas Exner
Mountain Guide (IFMGA / ACMG)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717
[MCR] Stanley Headwall Avalanche Conditions
I climbed Nemesis with a friend on Friday.
We were the first group to the base since last weeks snow fall and were pleased to see a significant amount of debris below the route from the bowl above it. It also looked like the slope below Suffer Machine had slid early in the storm. There were some fresh and rather large avalanches out on the approach slopes to the right of Suffer Machine but there is no sign of recent activity below French Reality. I think any slope that is steep enough to slide but has not done so yet is suspect. There are also a number of natural avalanches down on the climbers left side of the valley as you hike up and I would be suspicious of them later in the day once the sun has been on them for a while. We carried transceivers, probes and shovels to the base and it felt like a good idea.
We lost the packed trail for a while on the lower moraine and had to wallow over to the debris in order to get to the base but now that a few parties have travelled it again it is possible to make it without skis or snowshoes.
The route is in great shape with not much swinging required if you follow the peg board of hooks to top.
Cheers,
Marc Piché
ACMG, IFMGA
Mountain Guide
We were the first group to the base since last weeks snow fall and were pleased to see a significant amount of debris below the route from the bowl above it. It also looked like the slope below Suffer Machine had slid early in the storm. There were some fresh and rather large avalanches out on the approach slopes to the right of Suffer Machine but there is no sign of recent activity below French Reality. I think any slope that is steep enough to slide but has not done so yet is suspect. There are also a number of natural avalanches down on the climbers left side of the valley as you hike up and I would be suspicious of them later in the day once the sun has been on them for a while. We carried transceivers, probes and shovels to the base and it felt like a good idea.
We lost the packed trail for a while on the lower moraine and had to wallow over to the debris in order to get to the base but now that a few parties have travelled it again it is possible to make it without skis or snowshoes.
The route is in great shape with not much swinging required if you follow the peg board of hooks to top.
Cheers,
Marc Piché
ACMG, IFMGA
Mountain Guide
Saturday, March 20, 2010
[MCR] Kokanee Glacier Provincial Park, March 13-20, 2010
Just out of a fun week of skiing at the Kokanee Glacier Cabin with the ACC and Felix Camire! We had a metre of fresh snow the day before we arrived followed by a large natural avalanche cycle on the various surface hoar layers up to size 3.5 on all aspects. Since then the weather has been mostly clear and sunny with only a few flurries and 5cm of new snow through the week.
The March surface hoar is now down 55-65cm in most places and producing sudden planar shears in the moderate to hard range. We had whumphing in shallow areas all week and a couple skier remote avalanches which also stepped down to the lower surface hoar layers. The continued potential for skier triggering avalanches and for triggering things from a distance meant that we avoided all large steep slopes and limited ourselves to low angle terrain and smaller well supported slopes during the week.
Some wind effect in the alpine due to strong winds on Tuesday. South aspects had a supportive crust in the morning and moist snow in the afternoon. As of yesterday we were still able to find good skiing on sheltered N and NE aspects above 1800m!
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.conradjanzenguiding.com
[MCR] Goldstream / Adamant Ranges
I have just returned yesterday from 5 days of heli-assisted ski touring with CMH in the Adamant Lodge.
The main concern in the snowpack remains the two surface hoar layers about 60cm down (buried March 8) and 70cm down (Feb 24). On northerly aspects we found both layers consistently well preserved and the crystals standing up straight anywhere from tree line all the way to ridge top. In spite of the fact that there had already been a large avalanche cycle on these layers the previous week (at one fracture line profile of a sz 2 avalanche on Pyrite Ridge I measured a slope angle of only 23 degrees!), we continued to trigger avalanches remotely (i.e. from a distance), especially where wind loading had added volume and stiffness to the slab and especially on Tuesday and Wednesday when temps were warming and freezing levels rose to 2400 meters.
During Wednesday to Thursday morning we received up to 25cm of new snow (more snow towards the Selkirk divide, Austerity Creek and Fairy Meadows Hut Terrain) with cooling temps. On Thursaday we ski toured predominantly on western aspects in Austerity Creek, an area that is also accessible from the Fairy Meadows Hut. In the one pit we dug here, we found only one of the surface hoar layers about 60cm down. It was much less preserved but yielded clean shears (sudden planar) on moderate compression tests. Below about 2200 meters and on southerly aspects there was a distinct crust detectable, possibly in combination with surface hoar, which produced huge whumpfs in low angle terrain – not very confidence instilling but with the cooler temps and the low angle terrain we travelled we ended up not observing any avalanche activity. Skiing quality was excellent btw.
In summary, not much has changed lately in terms of hazard. In the alpine and at tree line, it’s all about terrain selection and sticking to conservative, relatively low angle terrain for the time being – which has been pretty much what we have been doing since the new year started.
Stay safe,
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)
OnTop ltd.
www.ontopmountaineering.com
1-800 506 7177 or (001) 403 678 2717
Friday, March 19, 2010
[MCR] South Coast Range ~ Mt. Pattison
What a beautiful day to be in the hills today. I hope this finds Everyone out enjoying the good skiing and soaking-up some sunshine.
Here are a few observations from travelling along the spine of the Spearhead Range out to the Mt. Pattison area:
Decker Glacier:
* a skier accidentally triggered a size 2 SL on a high, steep, east-facing slope sometime within the past 24hours. It ran almost to the bottom of the climber's right line that draws folks into that corniced cirque on the north face.
* cornices are massive right now and there was evidence of some having recently failed naturally sending some moderately-sized chunks down onto that climber's right-hand route.
* I witnessed a group of six tourers all unknowingly taking a rest break on a snow bridge above a crevasse today. Although the bridges can be thick at this time of year, they're not places to linger. Watch for sags on glaciers , which often indicate the presence of a snow bridge covering a crevasse.
Trorey Glacier:
* Some cornice fall onto the north face of Mt. Trorey did not pull out a slab.
* The skiing on these north-facing glaciers is very pleasant right now.
* Be cautious along the ridge between Decker Glacier and Trorey Peak as there are sizeable cornices that always form here and this year is no exception. Some have even calved off already onto the skier's left-hand line of Trorey Glacier. Be vigilant about giving these monsters plenty of room while moving along ridgecrests and while travelling below on the slopes.
Pattison Col:
* When ascending to the col from Trorey Glacier, it's good to keep an eye on the slopes above (the northwest face of Mt. Pattison) and choose an ascent line that keeps you away from the runout of these slopes, because of the scale of them ~ especially if you notice people skiing those lines while you're nearby; better to give yourself some margin, just in case.
Pattison Northeast Ridge:
* we toured up the slope until we ran into the ridge itself.
* some of the snow en route to the summit is faceted and weak, especially around the rock features, and some of the sections are exposed but there are options and places to protect yourself if travelling roped.
* the summit was windless, the sun was warm, and the coast range was laid out in every direction. Nice.
South Side of Decker Mountain:
* returned along this aspect using the broad 'benchy' terrain to take us back toward Disease Ridge. We dropped low (6300-6400'-ish) on the southwest ridge of Decker because we didn't want to have anything to do with the cornices hanging above that northwest face. They're spooky large. And, they have been performing. Lots of debris in the lower bowl. Some of the cornices along the upper ridge showed evidence of slowly peeling themselves away from the ridges themselves but had not yet completely failed and calved off..... yet.
* a crust is forming on south aspects now.
A cold beer was a welcome end to a fun day when we got back to the Village.
Be cautious about the overhead hazards tomorrow because the sun will be shining again and the temperatures will be warm. Many of the cornices looked overhung.
Wishing Everyone a great lead-up to Spring!
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Asst. Ski Guide
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Here are a few observations from travelling along the spine of the Spearhead Range out to the Mt. Pattison area:
Decker Glacier:
* a skier accidentally triggered a size 2 SL on a high, steep, east-facing slope sometime within the past 24hours. It ran almost to the bottom of the climber's right line that draws folks into that corniced cirque on the north face.
* cornices are massive right now and there was evidence of some having recently failed naturally sending some moderately-sized chunks down onto that climber's right-hand route.
* I witnessed a group of six tourers all unknowingly taking a rest break on a snow bridge above a crevasse today. Although the bridges can be thick at this time of year, they're not places to linger. Watch for sags on glaciers , which often indicate the presence of a snow bridge covering a crevasse.
Trorey Glacier:
* Some cornice fall onto the north face of Mt. Trorey did not pull out a slab.
* The skiing on these north-facing glaciers is very pleasant right now.
* Be cautious along the ridge between Decker Glacier and Trorey Peak as there are sizeable cornices that always form here and this year is no exception. Some have even calved off already onto the skier's left-hand line of Trorey Glacier. Be vigilant about giving these monsters plenty of room while moving along ridgecrests and while travelling below on the slopes.
Pattison Col:
* When ascending to the col from Trorey Glacier, it's good to keep an eye on the slopes above (the northwest face of Mt. Pattison) and choose an ascent line that keeps you away from the runout of these slopes, because of the scale of them ~ especially if you notice people skiing those lines while you're nearby; better to give yourself some margin, just in case.
Pattison Northeast Ridge:
* we toured up the slope until we ran into the ridge itself.
* some of the snow en route to the summit is faceted and weak, especially around the rock features, and some of the sections are exposed but there are options and places to protect yourself if travelling roped.
* the summit was windless, the sun was warm, and the coast range was laid out in every direction. Nice.
South Side of Decker Mountain:
* returned along this aspect using the broad 'benchy' terrain to take us back toward Disease Ridge. We dropped low (6300-6400'-ish) on the southwest ridge of Decker because we didn't want to have anything to do with the cornices hanging above that northwest face. They're spooky large. And, they have been performing. Lots of debris in the lower bowl. Some of the cornices along the upper ridge showed evidence of slowly peeling themselves away from the ridges themselves but had not yet completely failed and calved off..... yet.
* a crust is forming on south aspects now.
A cold beer was a welcome end to a fun day when we got back to the Village.
Be cautious about the overhead hazards tomorrow because the sun will be shining again and the temperatures will be warm. Many of the cornices looked overhung.
Wishing Everyone a great lead-up to Spring!
Best regards,
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Asst. Ski Guide
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Tuesday, March 16, 2010
[MCR] Rockies: Balfour High Col
Just back from an attempt on the Wapta Traverse. Over the past four days groups have turned back from Balfour.
I attempted to get to Balfour High Col on Sunday March 14. The previous day there had been an avalanche cycle. In addition to the avalanches in the Bow Hut environs there had been a size 2.5 off the east face of Olive, a few size 1.5's in the moraines in the Balfour Hut area and numerous size 2-2.5's off the east face of Mt Balfour.
With low expectations we started off on the high line, beginning far looker's right in the low angle moraines and traversing the edge of the glacier below the east face at about 2500 m, planning on dropping from there to the low line below the crevasse fields. A size 2 cornice fall off the north ridge of Balfour, another wind loading triggered size 1.5 in the moraines, 50 cm of wind deposited storm snow on the glacier, wind loading on Balfour, strong solar radiation on sheltered slopes, isolated whumpfing in the moraines, a "pop" shear down 60 cm on surface hoar after two taps in a compression test (on the glacier at 2500 m) and a near-simultaneous voice of God whumpf in the same spot made decision making easy and we retreated back to Bow Hut without having exposed ourselves to any steep slopes.
If the surface hoar was in the location I dug in it probably is everywhere on the route to the col. I can't see things getting better there that quickly, especially in the cold, shady "bottleneck" between Balfour and the nunatak where the steepest slopes are encountered. The route out Sherbrooke is suspect to me right now too. Another group turned back from Balfour yesterday, March 15.
Descending from Bow Hut the afternoon of March 15 we observed two solar-triggered size 2.5-3 avalanches off west and south aspects (Mts Crowfoot and Jimmy Simpson). We dodged from safe spot to safe spot all the way down the valley but saw no new activity near the trail.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com
Monday, March 15, 2010
[MCR] Boom lake neighbourhood
Had an idea that less snow may have fallen with the recent storm around Boom Lake and that the Boom to Chickadee traverse may be reasonable. Close but no cigar.
Approximately 20 cms new snow so the new slab avalanches on the moraines were thin and the only places that had not slid were where we wanted to travel.
Vicious suncrust already, even on Boom lake and the south facing terrain would be nasty-so much for dust on crust skiing. Nice day so more suncrust and surface hoar in production.
Larry Stanier
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
[MCR] South Coast Range ~ Musical Bumps to Adit Creek
Lots of snow and wind these past few days.
A group of us toured out today over to Singing Pass and then beyond to the confluences of Adit and Russet Creek.
The weather arrived midday with deteriorating visibility, increased snowfall, and strong winds from the southeast.
We had several 'whumpfs' around treeline with one event producing a size 1.5 soft slab avalanche beyond in an east-facing gully feature. I observed the same type of terrain avalanching naturally and large yesterday in the Spearhead Range around treeline ~ but on west and northwest-facing aspects and at least one of these events released within all the recent snow we have received. Essentially, all steeper terrain on most aspects at treeline is very suspect now.
Avoiding overhead exposure to avalanche start zones and their runout zones is a good meaure, and I am currently being very very wary of large-scale slopes. Recent storm snow amounts (50-60cm around treeline) sits above a crust on sun-affected treeline aspects below 6500' (2000m). In places, a layer of weaker crystals (facets) are sitting at this interface between the new snow amounts and the crust, and are relatively easy to trigger currently.
Up high, the winds have been moving lots of that new snow around so avoiding avalanche terrain in the alpine is not a bad idea.
This snowpack at treeline and in the alpine needs time to settle down and get stronger. It doesn't appear that that may happen until the weather settles down, too.....
Wishing Everyone safe travels.
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Asst. Ski Guide
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A group of us toured out today over to Singing Pass and then beyond to the confluences of Adit and Russet Creek.
The weather arrived midday with deteriorating visibility, increased snowfall, and strong winds from the southeast.
We had several 'whumpfs' around treeline with one event producing a size 1.5 soft slab avalanche beyond in an east-facing gully feature. I observed the same type of terrain avalanching naturally and large yesterday in the Spearhead Range around treeline ~ but on west and northwest-facing aspects and at least one of these events released within all the recent snow we have received. Essentially, all steeper terrain on most aspects at treeline is very suspect now.
Avoiding overhead exposure to avalanche start zones and their runout zones is a good meaure, and I am currently being very very wary of large-scale slopes. Recent storm snow amounts (50-60cm around treeline) sits above a crust on sun-affected treeline aspects below 6500' (2000m). In places, a layer of weaker crystals (facets) are sitting at this interface between the new snow amounts and the crust, and are relatively easy to trigger currently.
Up high, the winds have been moving lots of that new snow around so avoiding avalanche terrain in the alpine is not a bad idea.
This snowpack at treeline and in the alpine needs time to settle down and get stronger. It doesn't appear that that may happen until the weather settles down, too.....
Wishing Everyone safe travels.
Dale Marcoux
ACMG Asst. Ski Guide
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[MCR] Wapta Icefields
The following observations are forwarded from Nick Rapaich and James Blench:
Four days up on the Wapta Icefeilds Feb 11th-14th
Ski toured from Bow Hut to Belfour Hut and back to the Bow Hut.
Storm started on the evening of the 11th on our way up to the Bow Hut.
During the day of the 12th on our way to the Balfour Hut, strong south west winds and snowing up to 2cm/hour at times.
The storm ended early in the am on the 13th (4:00). Bring an estimate of 30-40cm of storm snow with drifting up to 55-65cm.
The morning of the 13th at the Balfour Hut had revealed a widespread avalanche cycle through the night and it continued into the day.
Natural avalanches, skier remote triggered and skier triggered avalanches were noted. From size 1 to large size 2's.
During travel we experienced extensive whumping on the new snow and the previous snow surface (March8th) on all aspects and elevations up to 3000m.
This morning (14th) on Mt Ronda size 3 avalanche had released stepping down to deeper week layers within the snow pack.
We were avoiding exposure to terrain steep enough to avalanche, slopes that have not slide or overhead hazards(loaded slopes, cornices).
When ever any exposure was mandatory we using diligent safety measures to mitigate the hazards.
By noon today there was strong wind transport at ridgetop and loading taking place with natural avalanches still happening.
Be careful out there!
Nicholas Rapaich - Assistant Alpine, Assistant Ski Guide
James Blench - Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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Four days up on the Wapta Icefeilds Feb 11th-14th
Ski toured from Bow Hut to Belfour Hut and back to the Bow Hut.
Storm started on the evening of the 11th on our way up to the Bow Hut.
During the day of the 12th on our way to the Balfour Hut, strong south west winds and snowing up to 2cm/hour at times.
The storm ended early in the am on the 13th (4:00). Bring an estimate of 30-40cm of storm snow with drifting up to 55-65cm.
The morning of the 13th at the Balfour Hut had revealed a widespread avalanche cycle through the night and it continued into the day.
Natural avalanches, skier remote triggered and skier triggered avalanches were noted. From size 1 to large size 2's.
During travel we experienced extensive whumping on the new snow and the previous snow surface (March8th) on all aspects and elevations up to 3000m.
This morning (14th) on Mt Ronda size 3 avalanche had released stepping down to deeper week layers within the snow pack.
We were avoiding exposure to terrain steep enough to avalanche, slopes that have not slide or overhead hazards(loaded slopes, cornices).
When ever any exposure was mandatory we using diligent safety measures to mitigate the hazards.
By noon today there was strong wind transport at ridgetop and loading taking place with natural avalanches still happening.
Be careful out there!
Nicholas Rapaich - Assistant Alpine, Assistant Ski Guide
James Blench - Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
Don't miss a beat Get Messenger on your phone
[MCR] Cline River Gallery, David Thompson Hwy.
Jen Olson and I had a day of work up at the Cline River Gallery on the David Thompson Hwy. yesterday. The tops of the routes are getting some indirect sun exposure throughout the day but nothing too intense, no issues with any ice screw melting out at all. The routes are in good shape, and don't seem to have been affected at all really by all the uber warm weather we've been having lately. Pure energy is probably in around WI4/4+ and has a bunch of different options for lines on it, some dry, some wet and one with more technical climbing than the rest. We also did "Are You Afraid of the Dark", climbs around WI5 right now, and links up a series of big blobs and pillars that makes for one continuous ice line top to bottom. Fun times
The ice up there has still got a ton of tension in it and on my way back down "Are you Afraid of the Dark" cleaned of a few big daggers close to the route with surprisingly little effort. There's still plenty more hanging along the top of the cliff left our the routes too.
Ciao fer now!
[MCR] Rockies, Guiness Gully and Guiness Stout
Guided Guiness Gully and Stout today, March 14. A nice cool morning in Field, - 13 C. The 10- 30 centimetre snowpack leading to the first pitch was locked up with a moist snow surface that had frozen hard overnight. The first pitch is getting beaten out and some 10 and 13 centimetre ice screws are helpful.
Above the top pitch of Guiness Gully there is a good trail/otterslide leading to Guiness Stout. The snowpack deepens to between 75 - 100 cm below the Stout and the recent storm snow has settled to 10 cms of dry snow. I found the March 8 surface hoar layer yielding moderate hand shears, but felt there wasn't enough load, or slab, above it to slide.
The Stout is in good shape with lots of new ice surface given the cold night. The new layer of surface hoar had grown to 4 miliimetres on top of the climb.
We bumslid much of the trail from the Stout down to the walk off (skier's left) above Guiness Gully, and were able to bumslide much of the descent gully.
A beautiful day out there.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
[MCR] The Good Bad and Ugly-Ghost valley
Went to climb Wicked Wanda today March 14, with a guest but got scooped by another party. We climbed GBU instead. The climbed was Sun Bleached and I had to clean about 5 to 10 cm of the bleached ice to get good screws in, however picks felt quite positive and solid through out. I climbed to the top in two pitches. The wind and cloud cover kept things quite cold today. There is some nasty daggers hanging precariously in the middle which heeds some respect! The far right or left line keeps you away from them. Overall was a great day of climbing.
Lots of people in the Ghost today!!
[MCR] Coire Dubh Integrale, Loder Peak Front range of Canadian Rockies (Mar 14)
Coire Dubh Integral, Loder Peak, Front Range of Canadian Rockies (March 14)
As an update to Barry Blanchard's post from yesterday, Friday's snow has melted off most of the rock and the 5.7 corner through the first rock-band offered warm bare-handed rock climbing today (as opposed to the "spicy" snow covered rock that Barry encountered). We kept crampons on though as there are still slippery bits.
On the upper headwall, we opted for a variation farther left, which provided us with enough spice--thin verglass in an offwidth. The step kicking snow gully out right that Barry took is still holding snow and at least one party behind us used that as their route to the ridge.
The whole face gets full sun around 8 a.m. causing small rocks and ice chunks to fly down.
Sean Isaac
ACMG Alpine Guide
[MCR] avalanche control Monday Icefields parkway, Sk xing to Parkers ridge
Planning on doing avalanche control on a variety of high and low targets
from sask crossing to parkers ridge on the Icefields parkway starting
Monday at noon. Weeping wall and Polar circus closed.
Periodic road closures starting at noon.
Garth Lemke
Public Safety Specialist
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Spécialiste, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper
Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
from sask crossing to parkers ridge on the Icefields parkway starting
Monday at noon. Weeping wall and Polar circus closed.
Periodic road closures starting at noon.
Garth Lemke
Public Safety Specialist
ACMG Assistant Ski Guide
Spécialiste, Sécurité publique
Guide de ski auxiliaire, Association des guides de montagne canadiens
Jasper National Park of Canada | Parc national du Canada Jasper
Parks Canada | Parcs Canada
P.O. Box 10, Jasper AB T0E 1E0 | C.P. 10, Jasper (Alberta) T0E 1E0
Garth.Lemke@pc.gc.ca
Telephone | Téléphone 780-852-6158
Facsimile | Télécopieur 780-852-6135
Cellular Phone | Téléphone cellulaire 780-852-8811
Government of Canada | Gouvernement du Canada
www.pc.gc.ca/jasper
Think GREEN! Please don't print this email unless you really need to.
Soyez ÉCOLO! N'imprimez ce courriel que si vous devez vraiment le faire.
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Conditions in Southern Purcells
I've spent the last week guiding at Powder Creek Lodge in the Southern
Purcells, east of Kaslo.
Purcells, east of Kaslo.
A much anticipated storm beginning March 11 came with strong SW winds and
deposited over 70cm of new snow in the area. When the skies cleared
Saturday morning we observed the wreckage of an extensive natural
avalanche cycle on Northerly aspects at Alpine and Treeline elevations.
Numerous slabs were observed from size 1-3.5, some showing impressive
propagations with fracture lines up to 1km wide. Most slabs failed on the
surface hoar layer buried on February 9, now down 80cm.
Saturday while skinning on a flat ridge, we remote triggered a healthy
size 2 on a North aspect at 2300m. When the sun shone hard mid-day, we
observed three Naturals to size 2 from a cross loaded, west facing Alpine
feature near the lodge.
The upper snowpack is highly complex, with four buried layers of surface
hoar in the top 100cm. It will take some time for the snowpack to adjust
to the new load.
Ski safe
Ramin Sherkat
ACMG Ski Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
[MCR] Selkirks / Whitewater Backcountry
After the massive dump of snow we had I was curious to check out conditions in the White Queen area. Here is what I found:
230cm height of snow at 1800m with 50-55cm of it being the new storm snow. Extensive whumpfing and cracking both in wind affected and sheltered areas. From flat ground I remotely triggered a size 1 avalanche 25m away that failed down ~60cm (likely on the Mar. 8 surface hoar layer). This slid in trees that some folks might think were dense enough to be safe terrain.
At 2000m I had 320cm on a lee north aspect and was getting the top 60cm to shear with 1 or 2 taps on the Mar. 8 surface hoar (10-15mm in size). Down 80cm the Feb. 24 surface hoar (5-8mm) was failing in the moderate range (CTM 13 SP). Both these shears were scarily fast and clean and quite likely to result in large avalanches with light loads wherever the surface hoar can be found (which is basically where all the good skiing is right now as the solar aspects are all suncrusted).
The storm snow on the southern exposures had already settled out to 20-40cm with all the sun we had yesterday. It seemed to be bonding quite well to the previous crust with no results on compression tests and no signs of cracking or whumpfing. It all has a 3cm breakable suncrust on it though (even where the trees are tight enough to provide lots of shade).
It will be difficult to find good, safe skiing out there right now as the low angle slopes with soft snow are still too deep to turn in.
The danger rating is at considerable right now, but the consequences of triggering a slide could be deadly and it would be very easy to do.
Probably best to let it settle out a while yet before venturing into the backcountry.
Shaun King
ACMG ASG, CAA Prof.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
[MCR] Rockies, Coire Dubh Integral
Guided Coire Dubh Integral today, March 13. The route is in good shape with the ice hanging in there. A little bit of sun affect and rotting on the first pitch, then it is big and blue with enough new wind drifted snow to kick steps up the less steep parts (thank you last weekend's storm). The crux rock pitch was a little spicier today with new snow masking the left side of the crack. There is good step kicking and climbing up the rest of the route to ridgeline.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
[MCR] Cougar-Evens Thomas
I was in Evan- thomas creek with a guest ice climbing March 10. On our return from climbing we spotted a Mountain Lion. I am not sure if its the same one that was spotted couple months ago. She left us lone.
Marco Delesalle
UIAGM/IFMGA Mountain Guide
www.greatdividemountaineering.com
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
Friday, March 12, 2010
[MCR] Curtain Call - Icefields Parkway
Hello,
Climbed Curtain Call today with JT. We climbed the route in two pitches with a 70m. The first pitch had some funky mushrooms but good gear could be found. The middle of this pitch was quite wet. The upper pitch pulls through a pumpy roof before traversing onto the outside of the pillar which is extremely wet! There are plenty of hanging daggers on both slides of the climb. A well beaten trail is in to the route.
To add to Pat's post, the roads were in bad shape for most of the Parkway, however, North of Tangle falls there was little more than 2-3cm of new snow.
Have a good weekend!
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide
Take your contacts everywhere. Try Messenger for mobile
Climbed Curtain Call today with JT. We climbed the route in two pitches with a 70m. The first pitch had some funky mushrooms but good gear could be found. The middle of this pitch was quite wet. The upper pitch pulls through a pumpy roof before traversing onto the outside of the pillar which is extremely wet! There are plenty of hanging daggers on both slides of the climb. A well beaten trail is in to the route.
To add to Pat's post, the roads were in bad shape for most of the Parkway, however, North of Tangle falls there was little more than 2-3cm of new snow.
Have a good weekend!
Jesse de Montigny
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
ACMG Ski Guide and Assistant Alpine Guide
Take your contacts everywhere. Try Messenger for mobile
[MCR] Northern Valhallas - 'Hare' Trigger Conditions
I have been tree skiing and tip toeing around the northern part of the range this week, as we got 30-40cms of cold smoke from Sunday nights cold front, then another 15-20cms yesterday, followed by 5-10cms and a spike of freezing levels to around 1800m today, with freezing levels already dropping now and continued snowfall.
Today we were able to trigger a size 3 at 2300m on north facing terrain from a ridge, around 200m wide, 30-70cm deep. It was getting actively loaded by out moderate SW winds, and part of the slide was a repeater from 2 weeks ago. Failure plane was the Feb 9 SH, but parts seemed to step down to the late January SH's. It pulled back farther on the ridge then I have ever seen, but did not put us at risk.
Following that, we were skiing on 20 degree N to NW facing terrain at a similar elevation, and I was keeping the group far away from the run out of a short but steep north facing slope. At a safe regroup in the trees, we scared a white rabbit and it proceeded to cross the steep slope I was concerned about. As it got into the middle of the slope, it triggered a size 2, 100m wide, ~50-60cm deep on the Feb 9th SH, with a few spots stepping down to the late Jan SH sandwich. No sign of the bunny.
Obviously things are ripe, but the propagation around tree wells and micro ridges of these two slides is what really spooked me out. Spicy times my friends, be safe!
Evan Stevens
Mountain Guide
Valhalla Mountain Touring
www.vmt.ca
evanstevens@gmail.com
evanstevens.blogspot.com
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Today we were able to trigger a size 3 at 2300m on north facing terrain from a ridge, around 200m wide, 30-70cm deep. It was getting actively loaded by out moderate SW winds, and part of the slide was a repeater from 2 weeks ago. Failure plane was the Feb 9 SH, but parts seemed to step down to the late January SH's. It pulled back farther on the ridge then I have ever seen, but did not put us at risk.
Following that, we were skiing on 20 degree N to NW facing terrain at a similar elevation, and I was keeping the group far away from the run out of a short but steep north facing slope. At a safe regroup in the trees, we scared a white rabbit and it proceeded to cross the steep slope I was concerned about. As it got into the middle of the slope, it triggered a size 2, 100m wide, ~50-60cm deep on the Feb 9th SH, with a few spots stepping down to the late Jan SH sandwich. No sign of the bunny.
Obviously things are ripe, but the propagation around tree wells and micro ridges of these two slides is what really spooked me out. Spicy times my friends, be safe!
Evan Stevens
Mountain Guide
Valhalla Mountain Touring
www.vmt.ca
evanstevens@gmail.com
evanstevens.blogspot.com
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. Sign up now.
[MCR] avalanche Mt Rundle
On another note,
We met a group of spaniards that have been climbing in the range for the last two weeks.
They reported that one of them triggered and was carried away by a slab avalanche while approaching sea of vapours yesterday the 11th.
Just an other confirmation of what the Banff National Park Avalanche forecast was.
I would also think the cross loading that likely formed the 1m thick slab would be found across that specific aspect of rundle including areas surrounding professor falls!
It was unclear how wide the slab was but the climber was about 20m from the "belay/anchor point" when he slid the full 20m until the rope caught him.
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein
[MCR] Ice fields parkway
Guided Weeping wall right side today.
The colder cloudy temperatures kept the ice well in tacked, good to climb
(read good sticks) in today's conditions but would turn rather scary under sunny skies.
As is, despite having good tool placements, we had to dig 10 to 20cm to get good screws.
The snow came down quite hard all morning for a total accumulation of approximately 20cm by 13:00. I used three pairs of gloves on the route due to the snow and occasional spindrift from the ledge above the second pitch.
The new snow made rappels touchy turning the ropes icy.
The temps reached a high of -2.
Overall tones of snow now blankets the entire Parkway from Lake Louise on with deteriorating driving conditions.
cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein
The colder cloudy temperatures kept the ice well in tacked, good to climb
(read good sticks) in today's conditions but would turn rather scary under sunny skies.
As is, despite having good tool placements, we had to dig 10 to 20cm to get good screws.
The snow came down quite hard all morning for a total accumulation of approximately 20cm by 13:00. I used three pairs of gloves on the route due to the snow and occasional spindrift from the ledge above the second pitch.
The new snow made rappels touchy turning the ropes icy.
The temps reached a high of -2.
Overall tones of snow now blankets the entire Parkway from Lake Louise on with deteriorating driving conditions.
cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein
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