The route is in excellent shape, and now is a good time to do it. The approach log over Connaught Creek is intact and solid, and found just below the picnic area parking lot. There is lots of snow to walk on in the approach gully, and lightweight crampons/axe is a good idea for this trip - lots of snow climbing and descending. The route itself is bone dry rock climbing right to the summit on mostly excellent quartzite. The descent down the SW Ridge is also dry, and the Herdman Couloir descent is in good shape too, with miles of 40 degree snow to down climb in a narrow gully. Quick, but a bit tedious at the end of a long day.
Recommended route, especially while snow remains in the approach/descent gully.
This is an awesome long quartzite ridge. Plan for a long day.
Grant Statham
ACMG Mountain Guide
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