Just returned from 5 days up at the Neil Colgan Hut.
We approached via the Schiesser Ledges and descended via the Perren approach.
Both Approaches have some snow and we found good use for it both on the approach and descent. We witnessed many cornice failures during our approach and the debris at the bottom serves as a reminder to stay on the the trail. Don't get pulled over into the gullies in search of water there is water in the "moat feature" to the left of the glacier at the top of the ledges approach.
I spotted a water bottle on a rock just under some massive headache potential, its not worth it!
On another note and as temps get hotter...the Perren approach currently has plenty of water safely accessible on its path however the top climbing section after the chain will soon get wet.
During our stay we sampled many of the peaks in the valley of Ten and ascended them via snow, even Bowlen! Due to their close proximity to the hut it was never hard to climb several in a day.
Our most significant ascent was possibly the W ridge of fay still in good condition..the other two gullies to the left all suffer from similar but varying degrees of cornice hazard and issues crossing the bergschrund. The Roth/Kallen had a particularly soft snow issue to cross its lower crux and i elected to take a pass yesterday and move on to the West ridge. A recreational party did however make it over sometime after we made it back down from our route. Take care not to start too late especially with overhead hazard!
The Glaciers are in relatively good shape but the shallower snow pack of the fay glacier is melting fast. The current trail to the hut will need some redirecting soon. A ski pole without basket should be enough to probe to ice if you chose to redirect your line!
Finally take care when using the rap line on the Perren the second rap is about 34m and ends over steepish snow. Some down climbing on rock is needed to get to the snow.
Cheers
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures