I just got out from 4 days up at the Lyell Hut and climbing the Lyell Peaks. There was up to 40cm of new snow on the storm that ended Monday. The warm temperatures have settled the snow rapidly. There were quite a few wet snow avalanches on Tuesday from solar aspects. The warm temperatures have prevented a good freeze. The crust was supporting in the morning above 3000m; below it was boot top post holing. Once the sun hit the crust deteriorated rapidly. Yesterday climbed the northe ridge of Walter (Lyell 4) and descend the South ridge. Excellent conditions with firm snow on the ridge, we were back at the hut by 11 am. The crux rock pitch is dry with a snow bulge to exit at the top. There are some large cornices on the ridge and I wouldn't want to be there any later in the day.
We saw tracks going up the north glacier on Mt Forbes. They appear to just stop part way up the glacier but that may just be were the post holing ended.
Larry Dolecki
Mountain Guide
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