East ridge.
Temps at Lake Louise at 0330 were 6C with a warm downdraft from the
Plain of Six. The Fuhrmann Ledges were dry and generally in good
shape with a fairly good freeze overnight (at this elevation at
least) providing excellent cramponing in firm snow up the final few
hundred meters to Abbot Hut. The west face of Lefroy looked in snowy
condition, with extensive wet sluffing down the Normal Route in the
last 24hrs or so. Temps at the hut at 0700 were 9C and we encountered
very strong westerly gusting winds, though with no noticeable snow
transport. Conditions high on the SE ridge looked as described in
recent reports (i.e. spicy with lots of snow arete climbing) however
we found all of the initial snow slopes isothermic down as much as
1m. Temps at 0930 at ~3200m were 13C under intense bluebird skies and
with highly unsupportive snow, so we turned tail at the rock step
before the Sickle and were very happy to be off the slopes and back
at the hut by 1030 when the snow had lost all cohesiveness.
Descending to Lake Oesa, there was still extensive snow in the
skier's left gully, but the snow in the standard right-side gully can
be avoided. Streams are pumping and mozzies are plentiful.
Carl Johnston
RG
Jeff MacPherson
ARG/ASG
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