Climbed Victoria from Abbotts today. Decent freeze overnight and good sportry snow climbing to the main summit. LOTS of knife edge, snow arete climbing. Not lots of cornices but still some steep sidehilling around the ones that are or may be there. Not a good place for wearing bell- bottom pants or learning how to walk on crampons.
Great conditions on Huber Glacier and huber ledges. It is a way better time to be climbing Huber and or Victoria from the Huber side.
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide