[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 01, 2010

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 01, 2010 Happy Canada Day. The warm weather of the last week has changed conditions considerably but we are still in a transitional period where a mix of summer and spring conditions exist. The scrambles and rock climbs of K-Country and the Canmore/Banff areas are mostly dry and seeing lots of traffic. There is often a bit more loose rock on the routes this time of year so be wary of what you are pulling on and who you are climbing under. Mount Louis and Castle Mountain have both seen some climbers but still have some snow lingering in gullies and descents. The Lake Louise area remains very snowy and there have been recent reports of waist to chest deep snow wallowing from both Victoria and Aberdeen. This snow is melting fast and there is still significant potential for rock fall as well as cornice falls due to warm temps. Both Parties turned around. There was also a report of a large avalanche on the North Face of Haddo Peak which would indicate a deep instability that would best be avoided by only traveling on steep snow after good overnight freezes. The snow conditions in the Columbia Icefields seem to be a little more consistent and travel is generally better. A small amount of recent new snow has been affected by the wind and it would be prudent to keep an eye open for small pockets of windslabs on steep slopes. Crevasses will also become more of an issue as the snow warms up later in the day. Early starts are still advised. Some of the lower and sunnier rock climbs in Rogers Pass (Tupper West Ridge) and the Bugaboos (Crescent/McTech)are drying out nicely but travel to their bases might still be difficult unless there is a good freeze overnight. The bigger stuff like Sir Donald still looks very wintery and will be cold and wet for a while yet. The forecast is for cooler unsettled weather over the weekend with the driest being in the south. There is some risk of afternoon thundershowers so get up and down early and enjoy the show from a safe place. Wardens and Rangers from the Lake Louise and Kananaskis areas have reported numerous bear sightings in lots of the places we like to climb. Make lots of noise and travel wisely... Marc Piché Mountain Guide
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.