Excellent summer conditions although we found an annoying breakable crust/postholing combination above 3000 m on west aspects on both Tsar and Alexandra. Good firm snow everywhere else. If you have crevasses at the firn line (about 2600 m in the Alexandra area) the bridges/plugs are a bit suspect.
No avalanches and minimal rockfall were noted. Lots of icefalls though including 3 size 4's off the north face of Bush Mountain today.
It's high summer out there. Bring the bug dope and sunscreen.
Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide
www.alpinism.com