As reported previously snow travel remains very good regardless of daytime
warming. Snow coverage is noteably better for the date than any season
over the last decade… Estimate 2+ meters of seasonal snowpack remaining on
the Serratus glacier as low as 1900m! Little if any exposed ice above
1500m. As a result, route access from the Habrel hut, all of which
requires glacier travel, remains largely problem free.
Typically problematic Schrunds such as the W face Dioni remain barely
discernible.
Routes such as the West Face of Serratus, typically melted out by this
time of year, at least for the time being still exist.
N face routes on Serratus remain in excellent condition. Again little if
any exposed ice the entire width of the face with all Schrunds easily
negotiable. Steep snow climbing remained excellent well into mid morning.
The last half of the E ridge Serratus, accessed from its N face, didn't
meet any of the loose rock bad rap received in the Mclane guide and made
for an interesting and challenging 4th class ridge climb.
Except for a recent significant rock fall event from its NE buttress,
coverage and snow travel conditions made for straight forward access to E
ridge of Alpha from the N.
Of note with the better than average snow coverage is rocky areas which
would normally have been well clear of snow are just now melting out
providing a surprising a prolific rock fall hazard.
Kudos to the Habrel Hut which is a magnificent addition to the range. Key
beta is to bring a Colman canister for the Barbi…gotta like it!
Keith Reid, MG