South face route on
The slope on the other side of the ledges is half exposed rock and half ice with the same slush on it. We used the rock ledges (cl. left side) up and down, since one can short-rope the whole thing to the ridge.
Halfway up the S ridge to the glacier shelf below the roof the snow started firming up. Fast travel with little foot pen on the shelf to the top of the Kain route. Ice, with various amounts of garbage snow and rime up the ridge toward the summit. A large crevasse runs clear across the roof (visible from the highway), but it can be turned on the right side (E face) on 45 deg. Ice. We climbed this pitch, but then turned around in a storm with poor vis and very strong winds. There appears to be one more crevasse above this point, but I am not sure if it goes as well.
When we left the area yesterday (9 Aug.) the snow line was below the hut in the large scree bowl, so conditions will be different now. The Schwartz Ledges should still be good, unless they get more than 30cm HN.
Small pots and a few dishes in the hut, but you need to bring a stove. Lots of white gas and some cartridges, old foamies at the hut as well.
Hut approach: from the rap anchor follow trail across the large scree bowl to the headwall straight below the hut (snow patches) and climb through the first cliff (good limestone) on a right to left rising traverse ledge with two bolts to a chimney. After the chimney keep trending up and left to base of upper headwall. Follow ledge below cliff to the right, until able to go up to bolt belay and cairn on top of cliff. This is easier than the route out to the ridge to the far right as described on the Toft topo.
Kobi Wyss
Mountain Guide