ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 23rd, 2007
Up to 20cm of snow fell during the storm of August 19/20 in all areas of the Rockies and Columbias. This has melted away below 2700m (9000ft) on most aspects but has created a potential for avalanche hazard in some areas above this elevation where small isolated soft slabs up to 30cm thick have formed on some lee slopes. There are reports of clean shears where the new snow overlies the existing snowpack so proceed with caution in areas where drifting has occurred. Shady gullies and faces above 2700m have a significant amount of snow and verglass on them making technical climbing quite a bit more challenging. Also of concern with the new snow are thin, weak, newly formed bridges over crevasses and bergshrunds making glacier travel tricky in spots. Due to the already weakening bridges and the masking effects of the new snow, it would be advisable to put the rope on as soon as the ice becomes snow covered. On the bright side, the new snow has made travel better on some glaciers and ice faces with a little bit better boot penetration.
Alpine rock climbs on sunny aspects below 3000m (10 000ft) should be mostly dry but you can expect a few wet sections and a bit of ice in the cracks as you get higher. Climbs that reach above this elevation (NW Ridge of Sir Donald, Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser) will probably be cold, icy and slippery until we have had a few more warm days behind us.
Alpine conditions in the report area are still generally good with a caution for the new snow related hazards mentioned above and for rockfall from areas where old ice is rapidly melting away and exposing loose rock (Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col).
Have fun out there.
Marc Piché
MG