Conditions seem a month behind the usual norm. It seems the mountains are in a mid July like state - based on the amount of snow melt on different aspects, the depth of snow on glaciers, the level of water flowing in smaller creeks and the healthy bug population at treeline.
In the Whistler area one can expect to encounter snow patches at 5500' on all aspect other than south facing slopes. Not much blue ice is showing on the glaciers. The weather has been cloudier than normal and we have had less prolonged hot dry spells. A bit like the August after the 98/99 winter. The glaciers might come out with a net gain of snow by the end of the season......
In terms of mountain travel guides have been reporting good snow travel conditions. In the Tantalus area there is a 2 meters + snow pack at 1900m and little ice is exposed above 1500 meters. Crevasses and Bergshrunds are still well covered which is making route finding easier than what is normal for this time of season. The winters snow is still melting out from many rocky areas, so rockfall normally associated with the winters snow melt is still a player in decision making. I have seen a few slivers of cornice still hanging on to ridge tops.
Further up Coast on the Howson Range glaciers the firn line (where last winters snow has melted to) is at 1600m which is much the same as here in the south.
In Squamish routes were reported as reasonably dry 4 days ago, but one can bet that the ongoing wetness in the last few days has dampened some climbing.
Now might be the time of the season for easily accessing high glaciated areas even by ski, rock climbing lower elevation southish aspects, and I wouldn't doubt there might be some good cooler climbing conditions on the High Peaks of the Coast Mountains. When coming down (or going up) expect low elevation patchs of snow where you normally find rock, scree or meadow. Basically think Lots of Snow.
Dave Sarkany