Climbed the west ridge yesterday. Finally a good freeze with 0 degrees at 0430 @ Neil Colgan hut. Temperatures in alpine have remained cool throughout the last 48hrs. Climbed small ice face to gain ridge in 2 60m pitches. The regular small ice/ snow slope described and shown in the Selected Alpine book does not look good (Large schrund, melted out and black). Instead we climbed the next slope to the climbers right that hits the ridge to the west (climbers right), of a small peak on the ridge. This ice slope had less rockfall potential, and easier schrund crossing, only downside is an added 20min to get up over and down the first mini peak on ridge. Crampons and axe were needed again up higher to make the summit. Centre ice bulge direct, and chouinard route looked reasonable with a good freeze. Roth /Kallen, Berle/ Kallen looked terrible/ non existent. Mt little and Bowlen also in good shape.
Cheers
jeff
Jeff Honig
Mountain Guide
Alpine Addictions
Box 1106
Revelstoke BC
V0E2S0
(250)837-2215 (home)
(240)837-1333 (cell)
jeff@alpineaddictions.com