Good Day.
On the Aug 27th we climbed A2, the peak NE of Mt Athabasca. There was 25cm of low density evenly distributed recent storm snow on the Boundary Glacier and at ridge top. There was very little wind with this precipitation and we found no shears in the snow or wind slab, there was more snow at higher elevations. The ice face on lower N aspect was in great shape for ice climbing. Many hidden holes on the upper glacier, slower going at ridge top but still great climbing.
This morning we climb Mt Olive and St Nic on the Wapta. Last night we lost the N flow and our cooler temps and awoke to a moderate SW flow with freezing levels rising above mountain tops. It was raining lightly up to 10 500ft from 6:00 -10:00 and the recent 15 - 20cm of new snow on the rock and ice was wet and melting fast. There were lots of hidden holes on the regularly traveled routes from the Bow Hut and at times the wind was gusting to very strong.
Take care out there.
M Stewart Mountain Guide