The Bug's seem to have had the better weather the last few days. NE ridge on Bugaboo Spire was in great shape as of yesterday (as were all of the spires) but there was snow above 7500ft hiking out this morning. The Bugaboo Snowpatch col is rapidly becoming unappealing with numerous crevasses open at the bottom and dirty, rock filled ice at the top. The bergshrund is still passable on the climbers right but won't be for long. Heard numerous rockfall events over 3 days in that area. Large (TV size) blocks lay strewn about at the bottom. There have been 2 close calls with climbers falling from the top of the col all the way down in the last few days. One walked away unscathed and the other broke his ankle and was airlifted out - both very lucky..
We chose to use the Pigeon Snowpatch rappels for our descent for these reasons. The road in was not affected by the rain last night and is in good shape.
Take care out there..
Mike Stuart
Assistant Alpine Guide