[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia
Mountains
Issued August 30 2007
 
Active week in the mountains despite the mixed weather.  Another 15 to 40
cms of snow fell on the 26th and 27th throughout the Rockies and the
Columbia Mountains. New storm snow fell in varying amounts down as low as
2000 metres. Robson area was reported to have had up to 40 cms of new snow
on the 24th and then additional snow from the storm Sunday and Monday.
A return to the Southwest flow has brought us warmer temperatures over the
last couple of days and has helped to melt much of the new snow below 3000m.
Higher up, on the glaciers and on North and East aspects expect to encounter
significant amounts of new snow and watch for slab formation and daytime
sloughing.
As many of the Glaciers have new snow cover beware of the many hidden
crevasses and weak bridging. Take extra care in your glacier travel.
By most reports the alpine rock routes below 3000 metres are coming back
into shape. Especially those with a southwest aspect. Temperatures in Rogers
Pass were reported today to be in the +15 range with many of the peaks
coming back into shape.
Forecast shows for the continued west flow and for precipitation on Saturday
in the Rockies but nicer to the West.
It will be a busy weekend in Skaha.
 
Dave Stark
ACMG/IFMGA
 

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] A2/Olive,St Nicholas

Good Day.

 

On the Aug 27th we climbed A2, the peak NE of Mt Athabasca. There was 25cm of low density evenly distributed recent storm snow on the Boundary Glacier and at ridge top.  There was very little wind with this precipitation and we found no shears in the snow or wind slab, there was more snow at higher elevations. The ice face on lower N aspect was in great shape for ice climbing. Many hidden holes on the upper glacier, slower going at ridge top but still great climbing.

 

This morning we climb Mt Olive and St Nic on the Wapta. Last night we lost the N flow and our cooler temps and awoke to a moderate SW flow with freezing levels rising above mountain tops.  It was raining lightly up to 10 500ft from 6:00 -10:00 and the recent 15 - 20cm of new snow on the rock and ice was wet and melting fast. There were lots of hidden holes on the regularly traveled routes from the Bow Hut and at times the wind was gusting to very strong.

 

Take care out there.

 

 

M Stewart Mountain Guide

www.cirrusalpineguides.com

[MCR] Mt Little (Aug 28)

Climbed Mt Little from Moraine Lake yesterday (aka Mt Big). It was a cold, clear night with thick valley cloud hovering at 2000m which moved out by 9am. The slippery log crossing at the end of the lake had a good centimetre of ice coating it (crampons on). The glacier had 15cm of new dry snow with almost no wind effect. The snow face (NW aspect) of Mt Little sported almost 30cm of snow from the past couple of storm cycles overlying ice. Signs of old sluffing but no new activity observed. The upper rock ridge was heavily plasters which made the scree sections easier but short rock sections a bit slower. Cold day with -2C on the summit (3139m) at 12 noon. The snow on the face was still dry on our way down but it was moist and balling on the lower tongue of the glacier by 2pm.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] Howsons in late August

The excellent travel conditions of the summer are persisting with cool
weather and new snow above 1900 m. The amounts are small, but enough to
make the lichen-covered rocks slippery. Both the Hut Creek bridge and
the Burnie River bridge have been rebuilt, but the one in Loft Creek is
still out. Very little ice is showing on the glaciers above 1800 m. All
deadfall has been cut out from the trails.

--

Christoph Dietzfelbinger
Mountain Guide UIAGM
Bear Enterprises Ltd.
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0
Tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Deadend Dihedral, Squamish

Deadend Dihedral has been given a good re-cleaning and
retro bolting of the belays and one protection bolt
were the pins used to be at the crux on the pitch 2.
If your not feeling up to the grade you can easily aid
the crux on the bolt and one #0 TCU to keep the climb
at a more moderate grade. This climb is excellent and
should see more traffic in its current state.
Two 35m raps to the base
Craig McGee

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 892 2259

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Assiniboine

Climbed the N Ridge with two guests on Saturday. Put crampons on 100
meters below the Red Band and left them on to the summit and back to
100 m below the Red Band. Snowing to the level of the Hind hut when
we left yesterday, I'm guessing there was more accumulation last night.

Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Assiniboine

This was forwarded from a friend, taken Aug 22nd. Probably looking a
lot snowier after today's precipitation.

[MCR] bugaboos

In the bugaboos the last couple days.  Cold temperatures up high and new snow from last Tuesday is still sticking to high north facing terrain.  Significant precip starting last night around 9pm all through night and this morning.  As we hiked out, snow line appeared to be about 8500’, but couldn’t get a good look due to poor visability.  Up the bugaboo snowpatch col yesterday, crampons necessary, no issues with the shrund on climbers right, substantial rockfall potential both naturally and from other climbers! 

Jeff

 

Jeff Honig

Mountain Guide

Alpine Addictions

Box 1106

Revelstoke BC

V0E2S0

(250)837-2215 (home)

(240)837-1333 (cell)

jeff@alpineaddictions.com

 

[MCR] Hector, Icefields, new snow

Up Hector on Sat Aug 25. The glacier is in good shape, with some routefinding and
weaving strong bridges can be found all the way up. The upper slopes had good
cramponing snow on them.

At the icefields today. There and all the way to Lake Louise there was variable
amounts of new snow down to below 8000 ft, most notably in the Bow Summit area.
Around Banff it seems as if the snow line may be a bit higher, but visibility is
poor.

Mark Klassen
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Lake Ohara conditions as of august 26th am

No precipitation at OHara since at least Thursday the 23rd am. -8c at Abbott pass at 6am friday. Brrr!

 

The recent snow has improved conditions a little on the descent from Victoria to the Huber Galcier and on the Huber ice face itself. Huber ledges dry and the Victoria ridge has a little snow but is very climbable. No signifigant weak layers or slabs found on friday on the big snowslopes on Victoria S ridge and Huber west face.

 

The snowcover is shallow in most places so don't expect to go anywhere white and sloping without crampons

 

Expect rockfall from any snowy mixed ground if the sun hits it when the air warms up. The snow is melting slowly in steep terrain but lots of rocks were coming off Huber N face when it got good sun on Friday pm.

 

Abbott Pass trail from OHara has had a bunch of work done on it that finished on thursday. It is still not a superhighway but it is REALLY improved.

 

Hungabee is probably the only peak in the neighbourhood that would be considered in poor condition by its normal route.

 

Some cloud and a cold strong SW wind on saturday am.

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

[MCR] icefields and A2

4 days at icefields...
Sounds like there is less snow here at the icefields than in other places..
Climbed A2 via ice face which was in good shape. Upper glacier as
well decent and the rock dry
Descended climbers right of boundary glacierand as previously
reported it is passable but a bit gross with the dirty ice. We did a
1/2 length lower on a short step which you could down climb but it
was just easier with 13 of us. still a few slots to cross below,
though mostly small ones as you traverse right to the bare ice.
Peter

Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
780 852 3237
cell 780 931 2521
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann@incentre.net

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary report for Rockies and Columbia Mountains Issued August 23rd 2007

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 23rd, 2007

Up to 20cm of snow fell during the storm of August 19/20 in all areas of the Rockies and Columbias.  This has melted away below 2700m (9000ft) on most aspects but has created a potential for avalanche hazard in some areas above this elevation where small isolated soft slabs up to 30cm thick have formed on some lee slopes.  There are reports of clean shears where the new snow overlies the existing snowpack so proceed with caution in areas where drifting has occurred.  Shady gullies and faces above 2700m have a significant amount of snow and verglass on them making technical climbing quite a bit more challenging.  Also of concern with the new snow are thin, weak, newly formed bridges over crevasses and bergshrunds making glacier travel tricky in spots.  Due to the already weakening bridges and the masking effects of the new snow, it would be advisable to put the rope on as soon as the ice becomes snow covered. On the bright side, the new snow has made travel better on some glaciers and ice faces with a little bit better boot penetration.

Alpine rock climbs on sunny aspects below 3000m (10 000ft) should be mostly dry but you can expect a few wet sections and a bit of ice in the cracks as you get higher.  Climbs that reach above this elevation (NW Ridge of Sir Donald, Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser) will probably be cold, icy and slippery until we have had a few more warm days behind us.

Alpine conditions in the report area are still generally good with a caution for the new snow related hazards mentioned above and for rockfall from areas where old ice is rapidly melting away and exposing loose rock (Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col).

Have fun out there.

Marc Piché
MG
  

[MCR] Mt Victoria-Huber Ledges on

Up Huber ledges to Mount Victoria again yesterday. Frost on the ledges
made for some slick spots on smooth quartzite sections and verglas anywhere
water was dripping or flowing. Upper Huber Glacier had up to boot top foot
pen with the occasional just over boot top pocket. We did find pockets
of 1F- soft slab around 18cm thick with smooth easy to moderate hand shears
both 8cm and 18cm down from the surface on the upper Huber glacier.
Good cramponing in gullies up to ridge on Victoria with a small avalanche
deposit allowing crossing of the schrund. Ridge on Victoria from Huber
connector to summit still in good cramponing condition. On the way down
Upper Huber glacier was still mostly dry snow. Snow on the lower section
of glacier was moist. Ledges below the glacier had dried off for our
decent in the mid afternoon.

Percy Woods
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Columbia Icefields Aug 18-20, 2007

Up in the Columbia Icefields area the last 3 days with David Lussier.  Today we climbed Athabasca in nice cold, breezy conditions via the normal North Glacier route.  Last weeks snow seems to have melted or sluffed off of most of the ice and rocks.  A little bit of new snow (3-5cm) above 2800m in the past 48hrs, is lingering on most aspects on both rock and ice.  Dry rock and ice below 2800m.  The North Face, Silverhorn and the Normal route were all in excellent condition as of today. 

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
Mountain Guide with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

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[MCR] Bugaboo snow

There is fresh snow down to ~2500m in the Spires.  Hard to say how much from a distance but it is at least 5-10cm.



Marc Piché
MG

[MCR] Hangers missing: Sea of Dreams

Hi,
There are three hangers missing from the second pitch of Sea of Dreams on Guide’s Rock (Mt Cory).  This is the easiest pitch on the climb but would be a nasty surprise for someone leading at their limit.  The bolts are in good shape so if you are heading that way you can fix it up with three hangers, washers and nuts.



Marc Piché
MG



 

[MCR] Abbott Pass

Flight into Abbott Pass this morning. Light rain and +1 C at the Pass at
09:00 AM. Peaks not visible and cloud layers very layered but fresh snow
line appears to be above 10,000 feet.

Marc Ledwidge
Specialist, Mountain Safety Programs
Banff, Yoho and Kootenay National Parks
Box 900, Banff, AB
T1L 1K2
Ph: 403-762-1401
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] A2 - Icefields Area - August 18th

Climbed A2 today, August 18th. It is located between Hilda Peak And Mt.
Athabasca, accessed via the Boundary Glacier. Excellent travel up on the
climber's left side of the Boundary Glacier. A few hidden crevasses where last
week's new snow is lingering - wear the rope!

The rock finish on A2 is totally dry and snow-free. Descent via the climber's
right side of the Boundary Glacier, pretty easy on a mix of snow and dirty ice,
with good bridges on the far skier's left.

Looked to be building a lot of thunderheads mid-day, but they flattened out and
the sky cleared by 1:PM. The upper north ridge on Athabasca (above the N Face
bypass) looked dry and in good shape.

Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide
www.PeakAlpine.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Temple. Mt Cline

Greetings

 

The conditions on the SW face/ridge route on  Mt Temple were very good today. The route was completely dry to the top, no crampons or tool needed. Min group of 4 to travel in the Larch Valley area.  The ice routes on Mt Fay were looking very boney.

 

Up the SW ridge of Mt Cline on the Aug 15, this route is also in great shape. 10cm of frozen snow on glacier with easy travel, did not use crampons. There is now a bolt and piton station on the ridge to help with the belays and or rappels required to negotiate the "notches". Pockets of up to 30 cm of new snow on the last 600 ft to summit. Many parts of this approach trail along the river and in the alpine are now gone due to erosion. The route descriptions are vague and a  good idea of the lay of the land will help with navigating your way in there. 

 

Cheers.

 

Mark Stewart

Mountain Guide

www.cirrusalpineguides.com

[MCR] Valhallas

Conditions in the Valhallas were excellent this past week.  All routes were in dry conditions, with crampons and ice axe only required for about 30m on the north side on Gimli, heading in to Mulvey Basin.  Probably could have gotten away without the crampons, but was happy to have them.  Drinking water is becoming scarce below Mt Gimli, with only a few very small snow patches remaining.  Be sure to fill your water bottles the night before while there is still some melt. 

 

The forest fire at Enterprise Creek (between New Denver and Slocan City) had been brought under control and the highway was open with alternating single lanes of traffic.  Smoke was not an issue in the Valhallas, but Nelson looked choked full. 

 

Three sailing wait (2.5 hours) by mid-day on the Shelter Bay ferry, heading back to Revelstoke.  Howard Street Café in Slocan City makes a great place for breakfast or dinner on your way in or out! J

 

Cheers,

Paul Norrie

ACMG Mountain Guide         

[MCR] Wapta - Bow Hut Area

Hello,

 

Just returned from six days out of the Bow hut with Yamnuska's intro to mountaineering. Conditions were excellent with easy travel lasting through out the day. We were seeing freezes over night and the snow bridges were supportive until the afternoon. Both South Rhonda and Mt. Olive were in good condition.

 

Have fun.

 

Jesse de Montigny

ACMG Ski Guide

ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

[MCR] Whitehorn Mountain/Parkway conditions

Drove up to the Robson area on Tuesday and back today. 

On Wednesday we climbed the South Ridge of Whitehorn Mountain. That route was so unpleasant we decided to descend the West Ridge to see if it was better. It wasn't. From start to finish there is not much to recommend these climbs, in my opinion. The route of choice looks to be the North Face although there are significant access issues to get there.

We had a good look at conditions from Banff to Robson and back. There seems to be significantly more snow north of the Columbia Icefields. Although the south aspects are drying up a bit, we found plenty of snow on the west side of Whitehorn, and all the Jasper peaks are pretty white above 9000 ft on E, N and W aspects. The icefields are a bit drier, but it looks like there the snow has made the rock routes slippery and not improved the ice routes a whole lot. N Face of AthaB and Silverhorn looked good, everything else looked dirty again. Between the icefields and Lake Louise seemed pretty dry (eg not much snow visible on the summit rocks of Hector). In the Lake Louise area it looked like the snowline from last week's storm was about 10,000 ft on E, W and N aspects, and less snow than in Jasper.

 

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

25/40

[MCR] Mt. Athabasca, August 16, 2007

Climbed Athabasca today via the North Glacier Ramp with Richard Howes and Patrick Delaney .  We had a good freeze overnight, great travel up the glacier on snow, and good step kicking in 15-25cm of  recent storm snow above 2900m.  We were able to descend the ramp around 1130 before it warmed up too much.

 

By 1300 the recent storm snow had warmed up and started sluffing/avalanching in steeper terrain or rocky areas so this is something to keep in mind for the next few days if the weather stays sunny.

 

A report from the North Face 2 days ago reported great conditions and it looked like it was in very good shape today as well.
 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
Mountain Guide with Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

 

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[MCR] Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 16th, 2007

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains
issued August 16th, 2007

The stormy weather last week finally brought some precipitation to the very
dry conditions. Up to 30 cm of snow was reported above 2700 meters
particularly on the Continental Divide in the Rockies. In most places,
except for northerly aspects, this has either melted back or settled into
good cramponing snow on glaciers. We have turned the corner of the very
long summer days with daytime heat being a factor for long periods. It is
now not light until 05:30 AM and by 09:30 PM it is now dark. With a
downward trend in temperatures combined with clear nights, there is now a
long overnight period of overnight freezing. In the Rockies last night,
freezing levels were around 2000 meters.

Alpine conditions are good. This is the case for both the Rockies and the
Interior including the Bugaboos. Routes that require rock climbing on
north aspects above 3000 metres such as the normal route on Hungabee are
not in the prime shape they were in two weeks ago. It will take a high
elevation warm period for this to happen. Typically, the season for those
routes is short at best. Other than this high elevation snow, the
mountains have returned to dry conditions. The weather forecast is looking
a bit unsettled for the weekend with some precipitation likely. It looks
like a cooling trend is also on the way so we can expect to see at least
some snow on the high mountains again.

Of note is that the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col is in poor conditions with dirty
black ice at the top and frequent rockfall. Stay tuned for photos from
Marc Piche of car sized blocks careening down this slope.

Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt. Victoria

To add to Sean’s posting.  Was on the same route today but went up Mt. Victoria and returned the same way down the Huber Glacier.  Excellent cramponing snow from the Huber glacier up to the Victoria Ridge.  The upper ridge is no longer dry but good cramponing today to the summit and back.  Snow conditions at the base of the Huber Glacier were still good by Noon.  We observed some verglas in the gully sections of the Huber ledges.

 

Percy Woods

Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Mt Huber, Lake O'Hara (Aug 15)

Guided Mt Huber today (Aug 15) up and down the Huber Ledges. Clear night and blue sky day made for great conditions. Still a lot of snow up high from last weeks storms (Hungabee and Biddle are pretty white) but the Huber Ledges are dry. The storm snow has repaired the final ice face providing 20cm of supportive snow over the ice allowing for good steps with ice screw anchors (you have to dig down for the ice though). The bergshrund is also in good shape providing several options on the left side for crossing. Some breakable crust (2cm melt-freeze crust over 20-30cm of storm snow) on the glacier making for punchy trail breaking.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide

[MCR] Grassi Lakes Climbing Area

The closure extends from the upper dam to just above the climbing formation
known as the Golf Course.

That means the following are closed to climbing and hiking:
The Ghetto
The Rectory
Swamp Buttress
White Imperialist
Hermit Wall.

The following areas can be accessed from the lower Grassi Parking area and
hiking trail and are still open:
Graceland
Meathooks
Gardeners Wall
Golf Course

The hazard created by the wire encased rock baskets, that have slid out of
place and threaten the canyon, is a very real one.

Chris Miller
 

[MCR] Closure of Upper Grassi Lakes Trail

Closure of Upper Grassi Lakes Trail
Canmore Nordic Centre Provincial Park

Issue: Potential for significant rockfall on to a Parks trail and
climbing routes on Upper part of Grassi Lakes Trail

Grassi Lakes Trail is a very popular hiking trail and sport climbing area.

BACKGROUND:

- Spray lakes road lies directly above a canyon where the upper part of
Grassi Lakes trail is situated. There are numerous climbing routes above
the trail on the canyon wall.

- The road is very narrow and has a large number of large Gabian baskets
full of rock installed below the road and above the canyon to help
stabilize the roadbed.

- Parks was notified of the issue in the early afternoon of Aug 14 2007 by
Volker Stevin, road contractors for the area under Alberta Transportation.
The baskets were reviewed by District Officer Glenn Naylor and Public
Safety specialist George Field, and immediately it was evident these posed
a significant threat to hikers and climbers below.

- When asked when this was first noticed, Naylor was told early July.

- The baskets are sitting precariously on a steep slope above the trail,
and some are hanging precariously. There is definitely a good chance them
tumbling down the slope in a period of heavy rain especially.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

Immediately close the upper portion of Grassi Lakes Trail to all use due
to significant safety concerns. Officers closed this portion in the
evening of Aug 14, 2007

It would remain closed until Alberta Transportation has the baskets
removed and re-stabilized.

Contact: Glenn Naylor/George Field
Date: Tuesday August 13, 2007

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mt Victoria and Descent via Huber Ledges

Snowy conditions on Mt. Victoria today with cool south-westerly winds all day. +1 C at 4.30 AM at Abott's Pass made for pretty good refreeze of the recent new snow, which avarages about 20 - 30cm above 2900m (Hut level). Generally pretty good travel along the ridge. Caution was necessary with day time warming, where the new snow interfaces with ice and where the track traverses below the ridge on the east face (descent!), especially if you were to be up there on a warmer day or late in the day.

 

The new snow made for good conditions descending down to Huber Glacier - the snow surface was still crunchy when we descended in the pm. Once on the Huber Ledges, conditions are dry.  

 

Happy trails!

 

Jorg Wilz

 

Mountain Guide (ACMG / IFMGA)

OnTop ltd.

www.ontopmountaineering.com

 

[MCR] Grassi Lakes Trail Closure

Just received this message from Kananaskis Country:

CLOSURE OF UPPER GRASSI LAKES TRAIL
Canmore Nordic Centre Provincial Park

ISSUE: Potential for significant rockfall on to a Parks trail and climbing routes on Upper part of Grassi Lakes Trail

·Grassi Lakes Trail is a very popular hiking trail and sport climbing area.

BACKGROUND:

·Spray lakes road lies directly above a canyon where the upper part of Grassi Lakes trail is situated. There are numerous climbing routes above the trail on the canyon wall.

·The road is very narrow and has a large number of large Gabian baskets full of rock installed below the road and above the canyon to help stabilize the roadbed.

·Parks was notified of the issue in the early afternoon of Aug 14 2007 by Volker Stevin, road contractors for the area under Alberta Transportation.

·The baskets were reviewed by District Officer Glenn Naylor and Public Safety specialist George Field, and immediately it was evident these posed a significant threat to hikers and climbers below.

·When asked when this was first noticed, Naylor was told early July.

·The baskets are sitting precariously on a steep slope above the trail, and some are hanging precariously. There is definitely a good chance them tumbling down the slope in a period of heavy rain especially.

RECOMMENDATIONS:

·Immediately close the upper portion of Grassi Lakes Trail to all use due to significant safety concerns. Officers closed this portion in the evening of Aug 14, 2007.

·It would remain closed until Alberta Transportation has the baskets removed and re-stabilized.

Contact: Glenn Naylor/George Field
Date: Tuesday August 13, 2007

_________________________________________________________________
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Sir Sandford-Adamants/Austerity Glacier

I too was in the Adamants area August 4-11, starting at the Great Cairn Hut, moving to a camp on the Austerity Glacier on Aug 7, making a tactical retreat to Unicorn Meadows on Aug 8 after a fierce storm, then making a strategic withdrawal to Great Cairn Aug 10 in rain, snow and dense fog.

Peaks climbed were Sir Sandford via NW Ridge rock variation on Aug 5, Silvertip East Ridge Aug 7 and West Ridge of Collosal Aug 9.

We had rain and/or snow every day of the trip, often in the form of hard afternoon showers for a few hours. Of note was the storm the night of Aug 7/8 which saw it rain at 2-5 mm per hour for a good 12 hours, luckily with little wind. This rain turned to snow at the tail end of the precipitation event. A cold front moved through the night of Aug 8, thunder and lightning, and 5 cm of snow above 2400m. It snowed a good part of the day Aug 10 above 2500 m. On our flight out Aug 11 we went past the south faces of Ironman/Austerity/Turret/Adamant and the rock faces and ridges were very wet and snowy and unappealing due to what looked like 10-20 cm of snow and I would say we would need several days of warm weather to get them back in shape. Sir Sandford was in the same boat. There was a lot of cloud floating around the peaks on Aug 11 and it didn't seem to be warming up too much up there, with little melt.

Glaciers were in fine shape, minimal foot penetration, good coverage, strong crevasse bridges. Bergschrunds were large however and would have been an issue if we had attempted any routes that needed to cross one.

 

On Sir Sandford NW Ridge we climbed the variation described by Andrew Langsford in his MCR of July 21. We were a bit right of where he described and found the climbing unpleasant and awkward on poor rock (but not too difficult). Still, this variation was better than the Hourglass, which looked difficult and unpleasant as well, due to gravel and a schrund. The upper mountain had a fair bit of bare ice on the glacier (25-35 degrees) and some wandering around crevasses. I was surprised by the poor rock quality on this route, in some ways it is worse than Mt Alberta although the climbing is easier (we realized why it is called Sir SANDford). The Hourglass is definitely the way to go if it is in shape.

Gaining the Silvertip Glacier seems easiest via an approach past the base of the East Ridge of Silvertip Mountain. The stream crossing is easier, the crevasses were very negotiable and it seems quite direct to the routes in that area. This approach is described in Jones' book under the Silvertip Mountain E Ridge route description.

The traverse from Great Cairn to Austerity Glacier is very cool although care must be taken in the loose gully getting to Belvedere Notch.

Mark Klassen

Mountain Guide

[MCR] Neil Colgan Area Conditions - August 9-11

Brad White and I were climbing with a Park Warden group out of the Neil Colgan
Hut for the past three days (Aug 9-11). It is presently quite winter-like,
with about 20 cm of new snow, and loaded areas of up to 30 cm.

Quite a lightning show on the night of the 9th. Climbed Bowlen, Little, and
Babel. The new snow and cool temps made for great travel on the glacier and on
the scree. Parties on the north face of Fay today, looked like good conditions.

The new snow has covered over crevasses on the glaciers, and roped travel is
strongly advised. The snow line was down to the top of the Perren Route.
Descended the Perren route today, snow free from the top rappel station down.

Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Adamants, August 4-11th, 2007

Just came out of a great week of climbing in the Adamants with the ACC based out of the Fairy Meadows Hut! 

 

Alpine conditions were good all week despite some rainy weather.  There is still quite a bit of snow cover up high making for good glacier travel to the larger peaks in the area.  The crevasses and bergschrund crossings are problematic on the Turret Glacier approach to Adamant Peak, but Austerity is in great condition via the Granite Glacier, as are most of the other peaks in the area. 

 

We had easy travel on snow all week with some very good freezes during the last couple nights.  20-25cm of new snow above 2800m over the past three days means the north aspects will have some snow for a few days but travel was still good.  South aspects were melting off quickly and the rock climbing was still good on the lower peaks. 

 

The Fairy Meadows Hut has been renovated and is very comfortable and well set up.

 

The access road is closed on the West side of Kinbasket Lake so we staged from the East side at the 99 km marker on the Bush River Forest Service Road in a large pullout which worked well for the helicopter and for parking.

 

Enjoy the excellent alpine conditions,

Conrad Janzen
ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

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[MCR] Lake O'hara, Aug 11

To add to Sean’s posting; I came out of there today.  It rained hard after he left and it cleared in the middle of the night.  Snow line this morning was below Opabin Pass.  Wiwaxy was still snow free.  Routes like the Tarrant Buttress look like they should dry after a day or two of warm weather (midweek?)  The ‘big rigs” will likely take longer.

 

Marc Ledwidge MG

[MCR] Bugaboo's

The Bug's seem to have had the better weather the last few days.  NE ridge on Bugaboo Spire was in great shape as of yesterday (as were all of the spires) but there was snow above 7500ft hiking out this morning.  The Bugaboo Snowpatch col is rapidly becoming unappealing with numerous crevasses open at the bottom and dirty, rock filled ice at the top.  The bergshrund is still passable on the climbers right but won't be for long.  Heard numerous rockfall events over 3 days in that area.  Large  (TV size) blocks lay strewn about at the bottom.  There have been 2 close calls with climbers falling from the top of the col all the way down in the last few days.  One walked away unscathed and the other broke his ankle and was airlifted out - both very lucky..

We chose to use the Pigeon Snowpatch rappels for our descent for these reasons.  The road in was not affected by the rain last night and is in good shape.

 

Take care out there..

 

Mike Stuart

Assistant Alpine Guide

  

[MCR] Bugaboos

Similar conditions in the Bugs to what Sean saw in O'Hara.  Snow down to about 2400m and a lot of wet climbers running away from Applebee after last nights storm.  I think the snow will disappear pretty fast once the sun comes out but might last a few days on the higher shady sides (Bugaboo NE Ridge).



Marc Piché
MG

[MCR] O'Hara Conditions (Aug 10)

It was "winter" today (Aug 10) up at Lake O'Hara. A dusting of snow is present, as of this afternoon, at treeline. We found a fresh 10cm of wet snow on the Odaray Glacier. The clag lifted enough to observe that the big rigs (ie- Victoria, Huber, Hungabee, Biddle) are caked in white. By the time I left at 4pm, it was still raining hard.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide

 

[MCR] Mt. Robson south face Aug 7

South face route on Mt. Robson, 7 Aug. Rocks on Little Robson were mostly dry. Easy travel on ice with 5 – 30cm of slush on upper part of Little Robson to the start of the Schwartz Ledges. Ledges in good shape, with some wet HN from previous storm on the rock, but melting back fast. 7 minutes to cross under the icefall with no difficulties.

The slope on the other side of the ledges is half exposed rock and half ice with the same slush on it. We used the rock ledges (cl. left side) up and down, since one can short-rope the whole thing to the ridge.

Halfway up the S ridge to the glacier shelf below the roof the snow started firming up. Fast travel with little foot pen on the shelf to the top of the Kain route. Ice, with various amounts of garbage snow and rime up the ridge toward the summit. A large crevasse runs clear across the roof (visible from the highway), but it can be turned on the right side (E face) on 45 deg. Ice. We climbed this pitch, but then turned around in a storm with poor vis and very strong winds. There appears to be one more crevasse above this point, but I am not sure if it goes as well.

When we left the area yesterday (9 Aug.) the snow line was below the hut in the large scree bowl, so conditions will be different now. The Schwartz Ledges should still be good, unless they get more than 30cm HN.

Small pots and a few dishes in the hut, but you need to bring a stove. Lots of white gas and some cartridges, old foamies at the hut as well.

Hut approach: from the rap anchor follow trail across the large scree bowl to the headwall straight below the hut (snow patches) and climb through the first cliff (good limestone) on a right to left rising traverse ledge with two bolts to a chimney. After the chimney keep trending up and left to base of upper headwall. Follow ledge below cliff to the right, until able to go up to bolt belay and cairn on top of cliff. This is easier than the route out to the ridge to the far right as described on the Toft topo.

Kobi Wyss
Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] MCR Summary for the Coast Mountains for August 9, 2007

Conditions seem a month behind the usual norm.  It seems the mountains are in a mid July like state - based on the amount of snow melt on different aspects, the depth of snow on glaciers, the level of water flowing in smaller creeks and the healthy bug population at treeline. 

 

In the Whistler area one can expect to encounter snow  patches at 5500' on all aspect other than south facing slopes.  Not much blue ice is showing on the glaciers. The weather has been cloudier than normal and we have had less prolonged hot dry spells. A bit like the August after the 98/99 winter. The glaciers might come out with a net gain of snow by the end of the season......

 

In terms of mountain travel guides have been reporting good snow travel conditions.  In the Tantalus area there is a 2 meters + snow pack at 1900m and little ice is exposed above 1500 meters.  Crevasses and Bergshrunds are still well covered which is making route finding easier than what is normal for this time of season.  The winters snow is still melting out from many rocky areas, so rockfall normally associated with the winters snow melt is still a player in decision making.  I have seen a few slivers of cornice still hanging on to ridge tops. 

 

Further up Coast on the Howson Range glaciers the firn line (where last winters snow has melted to) is at 1600m which is much the same as here in the south.

 

In Squamish routes were reported as reasonably dry 4 days ago, but one can bet that the ongoing wetness in the last few days has dampened some climbing. 

 

Now might be the time of the season for easily accessing high glaciated areas even by ski,  rock climbing lower elevation southish aspects, and I wouldn't doubt there might be some good cooler climbing conditions on the High Peaks of the Coast Mountains.  When coming down (or going up) expect low elevation patchs of snow where you normally find rock, scree or meadow.  Basically think Lots of Snow.

 

Dave Sarkany

 

 

 

 

[MCR] robson, North Face, aug 6th

Good freeze on north face, up to 20cm hard snow over ice.  Gargoyles big and faceted.  Wind slab building on southerly aspects above 11000 feet.  Kain face averaging 40cm slush over ice, up to 100cm.  West side of kain face slid in pm of aug 7th.  mouse trap in poor condition.  glacier travel generally good, bridges starting to disappear.  Photos available.

James Madden
ARG

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[MCR] ACMG Mountain conditions summary for August 9th, 2007

ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains isued August 9th, 2007

 

The heat wave is over for now but two days of stormy weather has not drastically changed the conditions in the alpine. For the majority of the storm, precipitation fell as rain as high as 3350 m's. Snow was observed down to 2800m's at OHara this morning but is melting fast. An educated guess would be that approximately 10-15cms of snow is stuck to the old ice and snow above 3000m's in the Lake Louise group and the Columbia Icefields.. Probably much less stuck to the rocks due to the warm temperatures. I think it would be safe to assume that as of today there was only enough snow and wind to create some very scattered, small slab and loose snow avalanches in the short term on ice faces along the divide of the Rockies.

 

Observations from the Columbia Mountains at Rogers Pass and the Bugaboos today talked about no new snow visible through the breaks in the clouds but everything is still very wet for now.

 

What little old snow that remains is remarkably strong. Glacier travel conditions have been generally excellent. For example, at the height of the rain showers yesterday, I still had decent travel conditions on the Odaray glacier. As of tuesday there was still snow to the North side of the Bugaboo glacier below Snowpatch where you descend to the moraine above the Kain hut. The Bugaboo/ Snowpatch col is still reported to be passable on snow beside the big crevasse with some ice and rocks showing at the bottom of the slope. The downside of this hard snow was demonstrated when someone fell while descending the Bugaboo/Snowpatch col. Crampons and good footwork are REALLY important for any sloping snow travel until things change. 

 

There has been LOTS of rockfall observed in the alpine during the summer heat wave. There is no question that the melting back of ice faces and glaciers has exposed some heavily fractured rock that has been held in place by the ice for years. These fractured areas have not had sufficient time to "settle" and big rockfalls are now a fact of life during the intense melt periods. A helmet is a great thing but should probably just be considered a fashion accessory when several rocks the size of modern TV sets are rocketing down the slope.

 

Rivers remain fairly high and fast in places such as the Illecillewaet and the Sunwapta.

 

The weather forecasts are pointing to a fine weekend. The alpine should dry out fairly quickly when the sun comes out but the High North faces will be probably be snotty for awhile as will some low angle ridges like Victoria. Expect some wet rock in places and I hope you are pleasantly suprised.

 

Bon Cours,

 

Larry Stanier

Mountain Guide

 

[MCR] Rockfall, Mt Athabasca

On August 7, while guiding the Silverhorn route on Mt Athabasca, I witnessed
a significant natural rockfall event that would have had catastrophic
results for anyone on the North Glacier [Normal] route.

The rockfall originated at about 3350 m, at 9:45 am, in the rib of rocks
that borders the climber's right side of the Silverhorn. It was triggered by
a gust of wind. A small tower/pile of loose rocks was blown over and fell,
gathering other rocks in its path. These rocks, ranging from the size of pea
gravel to the size of footballs, showered across the ramp and would have hit
anyone climbing in a 25-30 meter section underneath the release. The
temperature at the time and elevation of the release was estimated at 1
degree C; the temperature at 3:00 am in the Icefields Centre parking lot was
7 degrees C. The wind was Moderate from the NW.

The added prospect of rockfall on the ramp gives something to consider when
going up or down the N Glacier route, especially on a warm or windy day.

Grant Meekins
Alpine Guide, Assistant Ski Guide

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] MCR Readers Poll

Hello Mountain Conditions Report (MCR) readers,
 
The ACMG believes that the publication of the Mountain Conditions Report is
an important part of its responsibility to protect the public interest in
mountain guiding. As such, we are approaching you, the MCR reader, to
provide us with input regarding whether this tool meets your needs. Please
take a few moments to apply your critical judgement to determining how we
can make this work better for you.

View the MCR Readers Poll at:
http://www.acmg.ca/MCR_PublicPoll.html

Note: If link does not work, copy and paste it into your browsers address
bar.

Thanking you sincerely in advance. 
Peter Tucker
ACMG Executive Director
ed@acmg.ca

 
 

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Athabasca

Climb the ramp yesterday.
 
 
Strong overnight freeze 0 degrees getting on the glacier just before sunrise.
 
Most glacier bare until one reaches Nunatak (big rock in midle of glacier).

Jeff led the way on the ramp making steps in what felt like pretty good conditions, the sun had warmed up the ramp for about half an hour before we got on it, making the snow just soft enough...just right. 
 
On the track accross the ramp there are rocks from the silverhorn (large blocks)!!!!!!
 
We decended the AA col due to mid-day warming.
 
The gully was dry. At the bottom of the gully the ice was coverd by mud and scree.  
 
I felt going down the AA col that the scree was moving in larger amounts than usual. In fact I have been noticing this a bit more in general this year!

Patrick Delaney
AAG Yamnuska Mountain Adventures



> From: mcr-request@informalex.org
> Subject: MCR Digest, Vol 28, Issue 5
> To: mcr@informalex.org
> Date: Mon, 6 Aug 2007 12:01:02 -0400
>
> Send MCR mailing list submissions to
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of MCR digest..."
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Howsons 5 August 07 (Public Mountain Conditions Report)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 05 Aug 2007 17:46:38 -0700
> From: Public Mountain Conditions Report <mcr@informalex.org>
> Subject: [MCR] Howsons 5 August 07
> To: mcr@informalex.org
> Message-ID: <46B66F6E.4040909@bearmountaineering.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>
> On a guided trip to the Middle Solitaire Peak (2340 m), I found
> excellent conditions. The firn line on the glaciers is at about 1600 m,
> and just small patches of ice are starting to show at tha elevation. The
> snow was firm in the morning and had less than boot top penetration at 2
> pm. The untouched rock was dry with the exception of the north faces
> above 2400 m where little snow remains. Sunny and warm with excellent
> crevasse coverage. Crampons were not necessary. Schrunds are starting to
> be wide and many must be circumnavigated on rock.
>
> --
>
> Christoph Dietzfelbinger
> Mountain Guide UIAGM
> Bear Enterprises Ltd.
> Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0
> Tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854
> info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
> Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
>
>
> End of MCR Digest, Vol 28, Issue 5
> **********************************

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[MCR] Alberta

I went to climb Mt. Alberta- the Japanese route from August 4 to 7 but got chased off the mountain by the weather.  I decided from the hut to climb the west ridge of Mt. Woolley.  An okay route if you like choss and also a good alternative if the South couloir on Wooley is not in shape or if you didn’t get a good freeze.  The Lower part of the South face looks very dirty!

The crevasses on the glacier above the hut are definitely starting to sag and open up.  It is not advisable to travel on that glacier unroped.

Regards,

Marco Delesalle
Mountain Guide

[MCR] Tantalus

Tantalus:

As reported previously snow travel remains very good regardless of daytime
warming. Snow coverage is noteably better for the date than any season
over the last decade… Estimate 2+ meters of seasonal snowpack remaining on
the Serratus glacier as low as 1900m! Little if any exposed ice above
1500m. As a result, route access from the Habrel hut, all of which
requires glacier travel, remains largely problem free.

Typically problematic Schrunds such as the W face Dioni remain barely
discernible.

Routes such as the West Face of Serratus, typically melted out by this
time of year, at least for the time being still exist.

N face routes on Serratus remain in excellent condition. Again little if
any exposed ice the entire width of the face with all Schrunds easily
negotiable. Steep snow climbing remained excellent well into mid morning.
The last half of the E ridge Serratus, accessed from its N face, didn't
meet any of the loose rock bad rap received in the Mclane guide and made
for an interesting and challenging 4th class ridge climb.

Except for a recent significant rock fall event from its NE buttress,
coverage and snow travel conditions made for straight forward access to E
ridge of Alpha from the N.

Of note with the better than average snow coverage is rocky areas which
would normally have been well clear of snow are just now melting out
providing a surprising a prolific rock fall hazard.

Kudos to the Habrel Hut which is a magnificent addition to the range. Key
beta is to bring a Colman canister for the Barbi…gotta like it!

Keith Reid, MG

[MCR] Howsons 5 August 07

On a guided trip to the Middle Solitaire Peak (2340 m), I found
excellent conditions. The firn line on the glaciers is at about 1600 m,
and just small patches of ice are starting to show at tha elevation. The
snow was firm in the morning and had less than boot top penetration at 2
pm. The untouched rock was dry with the exception of the north faces
above 2400 m where little snow remains. Sunny and warm with excellent
crevasse coverage. Crampons were not necessary. Schrunds are starting to
be wide and many must be circumnavigated on rock.

--

Christoph Dietzfelbinger
Mountain Guide UIAGM
Bear Enterprises Ltd.
Box 4222 Smithers, B.C. Canada V0J 2N0
Tel. 250-847-3351 fax 250-847-2854
info@bearmountaineering.ca www.bearmountaineering.ca

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] freeway area, Squamish

Out today on freeway.
Routes is dry and in good shape. the only thing to
note was that almost every bolt, was loose, both
anchors and protection bolts. We hand tightened them,
but if your heading up you may want to bring up a
small wrench and give them all tighten.
"Men holding hands" was still wet for a few feet after
the crux, but the key crux clipping hold and all the
hard climbing looked dry.
"Western dihedral" had a big wet seep coming down the
first pitch.
All other routes in the area looked dry.
have Fun. Craig McGee

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 892 2259

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain condition summery for the west coast

With the return to more summer like weather
conditions on the west coast more people are finally
heading back into the hills.
Snow coverage on the glaciers is still very good for
this time of year, but do not forget that things are
changing fast with the warm temps.
Travel on the snow has generally been very good no
mater what time of the day your out at.
Creeks are still higher than normal so if your trip
involves a river crossing you may want to do some more
research about current access.
Most multi pitches are now dry in Squamish, however
after all that rain some are a bit dirty from water
flow,so you may want to take a nut tool each to clean
out the crack a bit.
Have fun. Craig McGee

Craig McGee, ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
102-4369 Main St. Suite #337
Whistler BC
Canada
V0N 1B4
cell 604 902 0296
Home 604 892 2259

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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Mountain Conditions Report Summary for August 2nd

The MCR team apologizes for not submitting a summary this past Thursday.  Please refer to the previous week’s summary prepared by Brad White.  It is still valid with one more week of dry hot weather.  Crevasse bridges will be a little weaker and the thin ice routes even uglier.  There was a little bit of snow at high elevations early last week but this should have evaporated in most places.

 

Marc Ledwidge

[MCR] Odaray - Tarrant Buttress

Yesterday climbed Tarrant buttress. It's in good shape, totally dry except
for a small snow patch near the top. We didn't bring crampons, the upper
snow patches can be avoided (tricky, loose rubble) and descent was behind
Little Odaray instead of the glacier. Toss the guidebook, none of it made
ANY sense to us from the "7m obvious arch" onward.

I found it strikingly similar to the upper N ridge of Stephen -- long and
challenging with lots of choss but some good climbing. Unlike Stephen it
has excellent positions in the rambly top 1500 ft. We found no signs of
prior passage (maybe because we couldn't find that arch?)

"Almost worth doing" - L. Stanier

Regards,
Tom Wolfe
AAG/ASG

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Cavell's west ridge

Just a note to anyone going up or down the West ridge of Edith Cavell
The route is dry, not patch of snow at all on the back. Trail quite recognizable where it crosses under summit block. Still water near the bottom of the decent... still bugs waiting in the meadows.

One caution, 15minutes up the Verdant trail junction there are some big trees down.
Under one of the first ones (the biggest one) there is a hornet/wasp nest.

Didn't stop long enough to differentiate.

Peter Amann

Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
Box 1495, Jasper AB, T0E 1E0
780 852 3237
cell 780 931 2521
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann@incentre.net

[MCR] Mt. Athabasca - August 1

Climbed Athabasca on August 1st via the AA Col. Still good conditions, but the
snow/ice is starting to get patchy, and there is some walking on scree to
connect snow/ice strips.

Continuous rockfall on the Andromeda Strain, starting at 06:45, about an hour
after the sun hit the ridge.

Descent via the ramp route. The recent snowfall was just starting to stick to
crampons at 11:00. Feeling pretty steep down the ramp, but OK with one
client. Not a place to be later in the day.

Good travel all day with the remnants of that cold front keeping it cool until
we got low on the north glacier.

One group turned around in the early hours, had the peak to ourselves on a
spectacular day!

Jordy Shepherd
Mountain Guide
www.PeakAlpine.com

_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

[MCR] Swiss peaks and Tupper

Spent the past 4 days in the Swiss peaks area - excellent conditions.  Snow up to Mt. Rogers is firm with the last 60 metres as ice.  The Truda swiss Couloir is still snow and excellent travelling after a clear night.  Rock ridges as expected are bone dry.

 

Marc Ledwidge

Mountain Guide

[MCR] mt fay

Climbed the west ridge yesterday.  Finally a good freeze with 0 degrees at 0430 @ Neil Colgan hut.  Temperatures in alpine have remained cool throughout the last 48hrs.  Climbed small ice face to gain ridge in 2 60m pitches.  The regular small ice/ snow slope described and shown in the Selected Alpine book does not look good (Large schrund, melted out and black).  Instead we climbed the next slope to the climbers right that hits the ridge to the west (climbers right), of a small peak on the ridge.  This ice slope had less rockfall potential, and easier schrund crossing, only downside is an added 20min to get up over and down the first mini peak on ridge.  Crampons and axe were needed again up higher to make the summit.  Centre ice bulge direct, and chouinard route looked reasonable with a  good freeze.  Roth /Kallen, Berle/ Kallen looked terrible/ non existent.  Mt little and Bowlen also in good shape.

Cheers

jeff

 

Jeff Honig

Mountain Guide

Alpine Addictions

Box 1106

Revelstoke BC

V0E2S0

(250)837-2215 (home)

(240)837-1333 (cell)

jeff@alpineaddictions.com

 

[MCR] Wapta Icefields (July 27-Aug 1)

Just spent the past week at the Bow Hut for a Yamnuska "Intro to Mountaineering". Despite hot valley temperatures, it did not get too warm up on the glaciers with good supportive snow all day; even into the afternoon. On the other hand, the massive sun-cups made for an awkward stumble-fest. Over all, more-than-normal snow coverage on the glaciers for this time of year but where bare ice exists, the snow bridges / snow plugs are junk (ie - not supportive). We climbed Rhonda South (July 29) and Mt Olive (July 31), both offering straight forward ascents via their normal ridge routes.

 

Sean Isaac

Assistant Alpine Guide