West Coast Mountain Conditions Summary , issued July 6th, 2006
Similar to the Rockies and Interior ranges, many reports of excellent early summer conditions in the Alpine. Generally warm and sunny conditions over the past week has consolidated snow at all elevations. Shallow step kicking reported on many snow slopes.
Although the past few days cooler temps have allowed for some minimal overnight freezes, the forecast is for warmer temps and abundant radiation throughout the weekend. A solid freeze won't likely happen over the next few nights, however good to still have the crampons handy for those steep pitches higher in the alpine, or for the icy glacial tongues
Glaciers seem well covered from mid way up, but larger crevasses are definitely starting to show signs of sagging. If you have the chance, scope your glacier routes later in the day, or early in the AM where the cross lighting from the sun highlights the sags. Although coastal crevasse bridges have a reputation of being more forgiving, surprises still happen. Ensure your rope team isn't falling asleep at the switch.
Although there have not been any reports of cornice failures in the past week, I would keep a watchful eye on these, and avoid being underneath anything that looks like it could break off, and ruin your day, especially when the sun is cooking them. The other concern is snow on rock slabs. There are numerous places I have seen large glide release avalanches on hot days in the mid summer caused by meltwater lubricating the underside. Although you can never be guaranteed that the snow you are on is sitting on a slab, usually glide cracks on top of the slope are a giveaway.
Rule of thumb for being under cornices and glide slabs -
Early AM good
Late AM and PM bad
No reports on mosquito inventory yet, but I would assume there are a few billion larvae on the cusp of a hatch. Handkerchiefs to cover the face, and bug dope (applied well away from ropes, webbing, etc) will be useful here.
Happy Climbing!
Brian Gould
Mountain Guide
Mountain Guide