2.15 AM start on the Normal (North Glacier) Route of Mt. Athabasca on Saturday 7/22 with temps estimated around +10C at the parking lot @ 2000m. Snow coverage started around 2900 m on the North Glacier. The traverse across the ramp below the Silverhorn was well tracked in and quite steep in spots (see image) - a large and obvious crevasse bridge can also be bypassed a bit higher than the main track, a small detour that seems worth-while given the effects of the heat wave. Nil overnight refreeze to mountain top, but travel was still manageable in the slushy snow. I had a look at the descent down the AA col side, which at 10AM had not yet seen any sun, however the snow overlying the ice was water saturated and there was reason to be concerned to see it slide with the day time warming. We opted to descent the way we came down the North Glacier.
While on Thursday the Sky Ladder on Andromeda appeared from the distance somewhat like a snow / ice climb, by Saturday afternoon it was looking totally rotten with black streaks running down the lower parts.
Hope for cooler temps........
Jorg Wilz
Mountain Guide IFMGA