Hello,
Just spent the 15th and 16th climbing Athabasca and Andromeda.
On the 15th we climbed the silverhorn which was in great shape. The burgshrund was easy to cross and the snow was secure to climb to the top. Good Ice screws were easily dug to a few rope lengths above the 'shrund. We descended the ramp route, which had ok snow for walking in. Think about how to safely cross the ramp....there is a big drop below! Snow became moist around 11:30am.
On the 16th we climbed the North Bowl of Andromeda. Woke up to rain which quickly stopped. Went for the walk and found the freezing level to be at about the height of the access to the glacier. Travel was excellent on the glacier. The route was in good shape with soft snow to 2/3's of the way up and the rest of the route being on good alpine ice. The decent down the true AA col was in good shape. Good dry snow (even in the afternoon) for kicking steps down but the ice is easily available if you need the pro. If you only have one rope to rap over the 'shrund it needs to be 60m and you need to rap from the lowest possible point of rock on the climbers left. This may change with more melt out as it is a rope stretcher.
Have Fun!
Jesse de Montigny
Assistant Rock Guide
Assistant Ski Guide