Spent a week in the Bugaboos. BS Col still in good shape, ‘schrund still easily passed on the climber’s right. Monday was electrical and showery. With a moderate freeze on Tuesday crampons would have been nice, but steps could be kicked, and the Kain route on Bugaboo was dry. Wednesday through Friday was wet but the lower easy peaks were climbable. Soft rain soaked snow on the glaciers. The crevasses are starting to open now. Thursday night the snow level dropped to below the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col and left 2 cm of new snow on Hound’s Tooth. From the limited views, Bugaboo, Snowpatch and Pigeon had a light dusting of snow, which should be mostly melted by now (Sunday 16th). The weather looked to be improving as we hiked out Friday.
Jordy Shepherd
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide