Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains, issued July 6th, 2006
All reports confirm generally excellent early summer conditions in the alpine. Daytime heating and some poor overnight freezes are the biggest variables in the snow and ice world at present. There have been a couple of reports of cornice failures and wet snow avalanches and lots of rockfall in the areas where snow patches are melting away in steep terrain.
In the Selkirks, Purcells and Rockies, alpine rock routes are in great shape. The classic ridges like Victoria, Edith Cavell, Assiniboine and Sir Donald are very climbable but cornices, snow patches and rockfall due to melt will be part of the deal for a few days yet on some features. Steep rock routes on all but the highest North faces are drying out way ahead of "normal".
Glaciers throughout the ranges are getting icy at low elevations and in exposed locations. With a good freeze, glacier travel is great but be aware that bridges are getting thinner and a couple of warm days with poor freezes can lead to nasty suprises. Keep the rope on and the slack down.
The big snow slopes and ice faces are widely variable right now. Again, with a good freeze, an early start and a good plan some snow and ice routes can be as good as they get.
A poor freeze, a late start and some fooling around could be a recipe for disaster. Please, don't even think about the big mixed routes like the A-Strain, Ice Hose and Edith Cavell North face for the foreseeable future.
Enjoy it while it lasts!
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide