July 20th, 2006
Alpine conditions are generally dry on most routes with good conditions on
glacial approaches. Bergschunds are starting to widen but most people are
reporting them to be passable. Forecast for all ranges over the weekend are
calling for very warm temperatures with temps up 30 degrees in valley
bottoms. Little freezing if any can be expected at all elevations.
Cornice failures need to be considered with these conditions. Rockfall
potential on alpine faces also warrants serious consideration with the lack
of freezing.
Columbia Icefield area. Routes such as Silverhorn and Athabasca North Face
are now quite icy. Glacier is melted back to almost ramp height on normal
route of Athabasca. There are still large cornices on Andromeda.
Banff, Yoho Kootenay Parks: Good conditions throughout. East of the
TransCanada, conditions are bone dry. Along the Divide, expect good
conditions throughout with icy conditions on routes such as Victoria.
Routes such as Lefroy and Glacier peaks still have snow but it is thin and
it won't last.
Rogers Pass Area: Generally good conditions with rock routes dry. Swiss
Glacier is dry but snow couloir on Rogers Peak still snowy. Couloirs on
Swiss peaks getting icy. Faces like Youngs peak are ice. West face bypass
on Sir Donald still has a small snowpatch. Of note, Sir Donald Trail just
closed today for bear activity.
Bugaboos: Good conditions throughout. Bugaboo Snowpatch Col still snow and
passable but bergschrund is getting wider.
Marc Ledwidge
Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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