Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 27th, 2006
It is now approximately the sixth week of summer conditions in the alpine and the hot, dry and getting icier trend continues.The snow is still melting quickly, especially below 3300m and ice is starting to melt signifigantly on the margins of ice faces and glaciers. Actual snow travel conditions vary greatly from day to day with solid freezes and morning slush all being possible.
Rockfall from the rapid melting of snow and especially of old ice is arguably the biggest hazard right now. As the ice faces and steep glaciated terrain melts out some REALLY ugly terrain is being exposed. Big blocks are left perched in precarious positions and they are looking to find a new home somewhere downhill.
Pure alpine rock routes are generally bone dry with some rare exceptions at high elevations. Snow and ice routes are getting icier by the day and bergschrunds are slowly opening up. The big mixed routes are generally in terrible condition right now, dry with lots of rockfall, dirty ice and exposed choss. Glacier travel is mostly excellent but alpinists need to be prepared for both bare ice and poorly bridged crevasses, especially in the daytime heat.
There is some possibility of rain in the weekend forecasts. Light to moderate rain isn't going to change anything dramatically in the snow but obviously it will be weak when rain soaked. We haven't had many big thunder and lightning events this summer but watch the most recent forecasts when planning your trip and the upwind weather when you are out as this could be an electric weekend.
Larry Stanier
Mountain Guide